Days 158-162    Sunday 6 - Thursday 10 July 08

 

Left at 7.30am for an early getaway. Light drizzle which wasn’t very helpful – but very satisfying as it’s not so good to leave somewhere when the weather is brill. We really enjoyed our time here – before it got too busy – it’s a really lovely area and we are sorry to leave but are looking forward to our trip north.

 

Heading now for the caravan storage place, an hour east of Toulouse. Motorway (and rain) all the way to Toulouse, then a single lane road for and hour after that. Stopped a few times and arrived just after two o’clock.

The storage is in a former textile mill run by a young Dutch couple - they have room for nearly 100 caravans and live in the big house on the same site - 80% of the caravans stored here are owned by Dutch people because of the ease of language - the Dutch are very keen caravanners. Storage charge 28€ per month. We were taken in to view the storage area, a huge light airy barn with caravans neatly stored in rows – we have requested that our Lunar be put next to another English van so they can exchange stories but the owner said that all Dutch can speak English anyway so that wouldn’t be a problem ……….. perhaps we have been away to long …………..

 

Left the caravan there rather sadly - having lived in it for nearly six months it seemed very strange to leave it behind.

 

Set off for Castres, less than an hour away. When we were planning this trip we watched as many travel programmes about European destinations as we could and put a circle round towns and cities in the atlas that we liked the look of in case we ended up near any of them – Castres was one of these. It is a beautiful ancient town built along the River Agout. In the middle ages the famous town houses built hanging over the water on both sides of the river were originally occupied by weavers, dyers, tanners and dressmakers who made the town wealthy through the textile industry.

 

Found an amazing hotel, Hotel de Europe, right in the town centre. If any of you have been to Abaco Cocktail Bar in Majorca or one of the Bacchus Bars in London, the décor of the hotel was in exactly the same style – totally over the top, crammed with plants, antique style furniture, tapestries and ornate decoration. A room with private facils and a bath (oh joy) for 55€. Walked out along the river in the evening and found a lovely little restaurant in one of the old town houses practically hanging over the water – great food too.

 

After a further wander round the town and numerous baths we left around lunchtime on Tuesday and set off continuing north travelling through acres and acres of sunflowers – huge areas of tall green plants with their bright yellow heads all looking the same way.

 

Stopped at nearby Albi, alongside the Tarn River - another holiday programme ring. In the 15th century it became famous for being the main area supplying the woad plant, the leaves of which were used to create an indelible blue colour for use in fabric dyeing. Many of the towns’ residents made their fortunes by producing the plant to supply the textile industry and built many large grand houses still there today. The city’s Sainte-Cecile Cathedral is the world’s largest brick built cathedral and the interior décor is entirely painted rather than carved. We found it breathtaking. From the river it reminded us of Palma Cathedral. Toulouse-Lautrec was born in Albi and the museum houses a big exhibition of his work – donated by his mother when he died, after they were refused by the Louvre! We loved the town and would like to come back and spend more time in the area.

 

Carried on up through the Massif Central and stopped for the night at St Flour, just off the motorway and found Hotel Ander which had a spare room but only a shower, no bath (boo) for 49€. Weather not very good so got the internet working, had a cheap meal, went to bed.

 

Left in the morning in better weather and continued north through the Loire Valley

to Fontainebleau, 60k from Paris and surrounded by forest which used to be the French King’s hunting ground. Headed straight to the town centre looking for a hotel, turned a corner and there was the huge Palace in all its glory. A truly magnificent building, or collection of buildings, oldest parts of which date from 1137 medieval times. It was about to close for the evening so we stayed in a hotel nearby – Etap, the French equivalent of a travel lodge, basic room with bath (more joy) for 40€.

 

We both had an urge for a Chinese meal and found there was a brilliant one just 50 yards away. Had a super meal, sitting in the window, and were entertained by the goings on over the road - a beautiful apartment building guarded by enormous ornate iron gates. Halfway through our meal the gates opened automatically as a car was leaving – or trying to – another car (now empty) had parked outside on the street right across the entrance. The car driver was on her mobile telephone in an instant and stood looking daggers up and down the road for the owner. We were looking forward to seeing what she’d do to them when they returned. Another car then wanted to leave and had to queue up behind the first one – what fun ! About an hour later the police arrived, then the tow truck. The car was taken away and we sadly had to leave the restaurant before the car owner returned. Would have loved to see the expression on their face.

 

Next morning we checked out of the hotel and headed back into town to the Palace for breakfast on the tea room veranda - by the lake in one of the courtyards in the sun, marvellous – then went to see inside ….. awesome place, beautifully kept and displayed with many rooms open for viewing – including Marie Antoinette’s bedroom, the Empresses bedchamber, the 50ft gallery/library, ballroom, beautiful chapel, and the sumptuous throne room. Originally built as a castle, over the years it has been modified/added to and became the Royal Residence of French Kings Henri IV and the four Louis. After the Revolution Napoleon Bonaparte lived in the palace and it was at the bottom of the horseshoe shaped grand staircase leading up to the main entrance (see photos) that he made his farewell speech as he was sent into exile. We walked round with an audio guide each and came out about two hours later marvelling at what we’d seen.

 

Left the town early afternoon and headed for Epernay, just south of Rheims, the Champagne capital of France. Had a lovely journey on long straight roads through huge open fields– we’ve tried to avoid the motorways (and tolls) as we haven’t got the caravan with us. The sunflower fields have turned into grape vines, three types for champagne – Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Arrived in Epernay - a busy, bustling working town and headed straight for the tourist info office to find out about tours. Anne had last been here 44 years ago with her parents and brothers. They went on a tour of the Mercier Champagne underground cellars on a little train and she has always wanted to go back.

 

Stayed in the very basic La Villa Saint Pierre hotel (recently vacated by the Munsters) - 33€ plus 3€ for unlimited wi-fi, checked out in the morning and headed straight for the Avenue de Champagne (music to our ears). Many of the great Champagne Houses are based here, Moet & Chandon, Mercier, Pol Roger, Castellane, Perrier-Jouet etc.

 

We toured the Mercier caves, founded by Eugene Mercier at the age of twenty and in 1960 it was the first Champagne House to change to stainless steel vats for the fermentation process – four years before Anne’s first visit - the little train is laser guided now! Eugene Mercier was a communication genius and a marketing pioneer making one of the first advertising films ever. He made a massive impact in Paris at the 1889 World Exhibition by displaying the world’s largest wine barrel (containing 200,000 bottles worth – see photo) and as a display it was only beaten into second place by the Eiffel Tower!

 

We passed through some of the 18k of underground tunnels, hewn by hand out of the chalk, all at a constant temperature of 10 degrees, and now containing several million bottles of champagne at various stages of readiness. We finished the trip with a tasting session in the new modern visitors centre where we made some purchases ready to wet our new grandson’s head. Couldn’t leave the town without a visit to the Moet & Chandon House, we didn’t do the tour this time but managed to make some more purchases in the shop – this child is going to have a very wet head.

 

Left the town early afternoon and set off for Calais on our last leg, we are booked on the 9.00pm ferry (cheapest deal we could find on the internet, P & O Ferries, £44). Had an eventful journey – the roads didn’t all seem to go where they said they were going (George was navigating) so it took us a while, never mind. Filled up with diesel for 1.39€ (about £1.13), still cheaper than the UK we believe. We arrived in time to have a meal in the Cite de Europe, the massive shopping mall, before heading for the dockside. Boat left on time  and we arrived at Anne’s Mum’s house in Grays just after 11.00pm. Total mileage driven since leaving Bristol on 31st January is 4,700 which is not that much really for 5 months, but of course most of it was towing a caravan! We have loved our adventure so far but we are here now to await the big day, August 2nd predicted, so we are signing off for a while – will update the blog as and when we can.

 

Best wishes, speak to you later …….

 

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