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Sunday, October 26
Tuscany to Rome
by
George and Anne
on Sun 26 Oct 2008 23:20 GMT
Day 270 Sunday 26th October 2008
Left about 9.00am after remembering to put the clock back. After three weeks of worrying how the car would tow the caravan back up the steep hill to get out of the site, we hitched up and George roared off (Anne wasn’t allowed in the car – unnecessary weight!) up the hill and round the bends – no problem. Lovely sunny morning, but a chilly 15 degrees because of the clear sky.
Soon back onto the Fi-Pi-Li Expressway to Florence and then joined the motorway all the way to Rome, 320k easy journey in under four hours. The temperature was steadily rising and had reached 23 degrees by the time we got here. TomTom was programmed up with the address of the caravan site we were heading for (the only one near Rome which takes Camping Cheques) and really came into its own as we left the Rome ring road – both sets of instructions we had said to come off at junction 6. We went past junction 9 then ran out of numbers ! None of the following junctions were numbered so we followed Aussie Ken and came straight here – miracle.
One toll – 18€.
Camping Flaminio Village is only 7k from the City centre. We could park virtually where we liked so have got a sunny pitch near the shower block. The facilities here are excellent, especially the shower/wash blocks - more like a five-star hotel complete with classical music and self cleaning loo seats (yes really!). We have taken some photographs so you can see for yourselves. The site is quite big with lots of chalets to rent as well as 300 touring pitches. Also has a bar, restaurant, shop and information point.
Enjoyed red hot luxury showers then had a walk round the whole site – guess what? – ours is the only caravan here at the moment – all the rest are motor homes. Amazing!
Planning to be here for three weeks and really looking forward to exploring Rome for the first time.
PHOTOS
Saturday, October 25
Florence, Hector and Vinci
by
George and Anne
on Sat 25 Oct 2008 17:45 BST
Days 260 - 269 Thursday 16th October – Saturday 25th October 2008
Had a wonderful day in Florence – went on the train, 45 minutes, 3.50€ each. There is so much see we had to be ruthlessly selective and ended up seeing The Basilica of San Lorenzo, Piazza del Duomo ( Cathedral Square), Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Pitti and the Basilica of Santa Croce.
The Basilica of San Lorenzo is one of the largest churches of Florence situated at the centre of the city’s main market district, and the burial place of all the principal members of the Medici family.The main area was closed when we were there but we could walk into the entrance and round the cloistered garden. The very plain bricked facade of the building was never finished, despite detailed plans drawn up by Michelangelo.
The Piazza del Duomo was a bustling area containing the main Cathedral, the Baptistry and Giotto’s Bell Tower. The Cathedral has a magnificent interior with sixteen altars and a huge dome covered by an enormous fresco - Last Judgement by Vasari, Zuccari and helpers. There are also beautiful stained glass windows dating from the 14th and 15th centuries. Entry was free.
The Baptistry stands next to the Cathedral, built around the 5th century, a striking eight-sided, green and white marble building.
Also in the Cathedral Square is Giotto’s Bell Tower. Dating from the 1300s it stands 85m tall - 414 stone steps to the top - 6€ each and well worth the climb for the great views over the city.
Next was the Piazza della Signoria – from the late 1200s the scene of major Florentine events. Dominating one side are the three great arches of the Loggia della Signoria, designed in the 1380s for public ceremonies. It later became an open-air sculpture museum housing some fabulous pieces – see photos. Also in this square, The Neptune Fountain stands in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.
Then off to the other side of the River Arno over the Ponte Vecchio or old bridge – lined each side with jewellery shops – to the Palazzo Pitti, the Little Palace. Today it is a complex of museums and art galleries – The Palatine Gallery, The Monumental Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art, the Silver Museum, the Costume Gallery and the Coach Museum. We paid 12€ each to view the Palatine Gallery and the Monumental Apartments – worth every penny - we saw some stunning décor and famous paintings. Photos weren’t allowed but George sneaked a couple. The highlights for Anne was the Paintings by Raphael – Madonna of the Chair and La Velata, and Titian’s Mary Magdalene. We were in here for over three hours and only left because it was getting late and we wanted to see the Church of Santa Croce where Michelangelo is buried. Sadly, when we got there it had just closed so that will have to wait for another visit.
We thought Florence was an amazing City – too much to see in one visit, the churches alone would take days, the numerous art galleries need time to do them justice so we look forward to coming here again in the future.
Uk Interlude to visit little Hector -
Went on the train to Pisa airport leaving the car outside the local station in the next village of San Romano. Easyjet flight was on time and we landed at Gatwick South a 12 noon. Roger and Lee met us and we went straight to Kenley to the new house. Graham and Mum were already there so we had a lovely reunion. After a few hours they all left and Nina, James, Hector and Grandparents went for a long walk – with us fighting over who was going to push the buggy.
Their house is really lovely - Nina and James have got everything well organised – and little Hector has his very own first bedroom. Needless to say he charmed everybody completely. He has just moved on to bottled milk so we were all fighting for a turn to feed him – but Grandma managed to bath him and put him to bed both nights! Had a lovely few days with them all before making our way back to Gatwick on the train – Nina and Hector came with us to the airport to see us off! Flight delayed just over and hour this time, but we were in no rush.
Arrived back at the site to find our caravan all on its own. There are about three others up by the shower block and that’s it – on a site that can hold over 80! It’s lovely and quiet, apart from a bit of road noise, so we’ve had some great afternoons sunbathing, with the place almost to ourselves.
Went on a trip to Vinci (as in Leonardo da), a little village on a hilltop about twenty minutes drive from here. There is a museum dedicated to his works with models, built to scale in recent times (mainly by IBM), standing alongside copies of his original drawings – fascinating. The village itself is very pretty, spread round the church where Leonardo is said to have been christened (the original font is still inside) with super views over the Montalbano hills, narrow streets and shady terraces.
On the way back we visited another town – Cerreto Guidi – where one of the most infamous Medici Villas was built on the hilltop overlooking the town. It is now open to the public so we walked round spacious rooms with various exhibits on show. It was the scene of a brutal murder in1576. Isabella Medici, wife of Paolo Giordano Orsini, had plenty of money from father Cosimo Medici, didn’t care too much for her usually absent husband and got involved with Troilus Orsini, her husbands cousin. Paolo wasn’t too happy about this and strangled his 34 year old wife in her bed during a hunting trip when staying at this villa.
Been here for 3 weeks now. Paid the bill with camping cheques equivalent to about 14€ a night less 2 nights discount for staying 21 nights. Also we have enjoyed free internet here, wifi which worked most of the time in the caravan. That’s why the blog and photos are up to date!
Off to Rome tomorrow. More culture!
SEE NEW PHOTOS - CLICK HERE
Wednesday, October 15
Pam and Lester Visit Us in Tuscany
by
George and Anne
on Wed 15 Oct 2008 23:57 BST
Days 250 - 259 Monday 6th October – Wednesday 15th October 2008
This contribution to the blog is sponsored by Pam and Lester Biffin, (no cash received so far), who some of you may remember, paid us a visit in May, when we were in Lisbon. After repeated requests to spend even more time in the awning, we eventually gave way and have let them stay for the past five or six days.
It is good to learn from one’s mistakes, so this time, just hand luggage, which proved to be a very good decision as it saved lots of journey time. From home at 06.15 to meeting G & A in Pisa at 10.45 – and that includes adding the hour. 30 mins later we were on site, in shorts, beer in hand, soaking up a few rays, during the customary day one planning meeting.
Top of the list was Siena, so we did the day trip on the Friday. Parked under the old city wall and meandered through a true medieval gem of a city with visits to the Duomo (Cathedral) and the central Piazza, where, every year there is a major Horse Race meeting (see photos). Found a great pavement Trattoria and had a hurried lunch as they were about to close – great Pasta and Chianti – Bellisimo! Spent the rest of the day exploring the traffic free streets and alleyways, which were fascinating. Back home after dark – thank you driver (Annie).
Next day we went to the Saturday Market in the local village of Montopoli – 10/12 stalls with fish, meat, veg and the usual tat! Got some provisions for a Barbie, inc. a good helping of chestnuts for roasting on an open fire. Decided if the weather stayed this way, we would go to the beach.
Guess what – next day it was a day at the seaside! We were surprised that so many Italians decided to join us on an October Sunday, but it was close to 30 degrees and the water was warm (well it was on my ankles). We were in a rocky cove, north of Livorno and the locals were catching live squid, which was good entertainment.
It’s Monday, so it must be a train ride to Pisa, A few hundred years ago, someone had the foresight to build a bell tower, next to the cathedral, that looked like it was going to fall over. Some wag called it the “Leaning Tower of Pisa” and now it attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the world, the majority of whom take great pleasure in having a photo taken holding the thing up – yes, of course we did!
Had this building error not happened, Pisa would probably be just another town in Italy and our leisurely mid afternoon lunch would have been half the price!
Last full day here, so we stayed local and embarked on a walking circumnavigation of Montopoli. We headed out on the road from the campsite and soon we were on forest tracks and walking through several fields of olive trees and grapevines before finding our way back into the village for a most welcome sit down on a bar terrace, overlooking the main street, for a drink (or two) and an ice cream.
Up early for breakfast and the return trip to Pisa airport. We haven’t even mentioned the superb hospitality of our hosts, the barbies, the excellent food and drink, the chat, the card games, the boules night and the films we watched after midnight on DVD. It is good to know that we can still pack it all in and survive! A truly memorable and enjoyable few days – can’t wait till the next time!
Thanks - Lester & Pam.
Thank you both for that – we really enjoyed your visit as well.
This is our first visit to Tuscany and so far it is a good one.
Legend has it that Siena was founded by Aschius and Senius, sons of Remus (as in Romulus and Remus, the two brothers abandoned in the wood suckled and cared for by a she-wolf). Hence many statues of Romulus and Remus with the Wolf can be seen. Siena is a lovely walled city dominated by the Dumo, Cathedral, with exterior black and white striped decoration dating from the late 1300s.
The interior has impressive striped marble pillars, and inlaid marble panels depicting biblical scenes cover the floor. In one alcove was a statue of John the Baptist by Donatello. Anne particularly liked the ivory pulpit – apparently a masterpiece of Italian Gothic sculpture. Unfortunately our photographs don’t do the interior justice because of the dim lighting but you’ll get an idea. Entrance was 6€ per person.
One of the most impressive parts of Siena Cathedral was the Libreria Piccolomini – built as the personal library of Pope Pious II. The remarkably detailed wall and ceiling frescos are amazing – look at the photos, they look 3D but they are painted flat! The Cathedral also hosts sculpture by the young Michelangelo.
We stopped off at San Gimignano on the way home from Siena. It is one of the most unique Tuscan towns, and one of the most photographed, thanks to its hilltop position, tall towers and perfectly intact medieval walls. The town used to boast over forty towers, of which thirteen remain today. The really attractive narrow streets, however, were lined with touristy shops and were heaving with visitors. It felt as if this pretty village had perhaps become a victim of its own popularity.
The trip to Pisa was interesting. Went on the train – 2.90€ for a 30 min ride right into the centre. We had no idea that the famous leaning bell tower was so pretty - it was begun in 1173 and was completed 200 years later and has recently been stabilised - should be ok now for another 200. It is in the large grassy Piazza dei Miracoli (the miracle square) along with the impressive Cathedral, the Baptistery and the long Camposanto wall (cemetery). On first sight, the whiteness of the buildings contrasting with the lush green grass creates an impressive display. The place was heaving with tourists though, far too many English voices for our liking. We wanted to go up to the top of the tower but were put off by the two hour wait and the 15€ per person price. We decided to just go in the Cathedral for a very reasonable 2€ instead.
Had a great time with our visitors - lots of new photos if you are interested – click below. Pam became an expert in pest control, zapping lots of buzzy-things with our electric tennis racket - forehands, backhands and even a round-the-head shot. Anything that flew about in the awning was living on borrowed time.
We now have a few days on our own before a quick trip to the UK to visit Nina, James and Hector in their new home.
CLICK HERE FOR NEW PHOTOS
Sunday, October 5
San Remo to Montopoli, Tuscany
by
George and Anne
on Sun 05 Oct 2008 23:26 BST
Day 249 Sunday 5th October 2008
Left at 8.30 and went back up the hill to the motorway. It’s toll motorway all the way past Genoa and down into Tuscany. TomTom says 350k and it should take three and a half hours driving. He doesn’t always remember that we are towing a caravan!
Lovely morning when we left, bright sunshine, amazing views of the sea and the coastline on the way.
First half was all tunnels and bridges – through a mountain tunnel then out over a high road bridge to the next tunnel. The length of the tunnels varied – some were only about 50m long, two were over 1400m with others of varying lengths in between - George thinks we must have gone through nearly fifty of them.
As we got past Genoa and round the corner the scenery became flatter for a while so we turned off the headlights which we’d had on for all the tunnels – mistake! Some kind person overtook us then slowed down in front of us and flashed his hazards. George remembered reading somewhere that you must have your lights on at all times on the motorways in Italy. We turned them on and the car sped away – kind man because, as we found out later from someone on the caravan site, that the police fine you on the spot apparently.
Came down past signs for Pisa Airport and turned off the motorway near Livorno onto the Fi-Pi-Li Expressway (Firenze (Florence)- Pisa-Livorno). Toll 41€.
Still hot and sunny - found the caravan site without any problems – until we came through the entrance and saw the roadway disappearing down round a big, very steep turn! Stopped there and went down to look round – this site is about as different from the last one as is possible - set on a terraced wooded hillside in amongst trees and fields, loads of space and not many other people. We are going to put the awning up as Pam and Lester are visiting us here. It’s their second visit so the first one can’t have been that bad.
Chose a spacious pitch, went back to book in at Reception, then got back in the car and made our way very slowly down the hillside, no problem - but George is already worrying about how we’ll get up it again – never mind, we’re here for three weeks so will meet that when we get to it. On the plus side – we have got 10amps electricity, oh joy.
As the weather was so lovely we gave the caravan a good clean inside (Anne) and out (George) then sat in the sun with a cup of tea and piece of cake – Lovely. The awning can wait until tomorrow.
Here for three weeks. Looking forward to seeing Pam and Lester on Thursday. Planning to explore Pisa and Florence, and do some walking in this beautiful countryside.
Saturday, October 4
Second week in San Remo
by
GHorsfield
on Sat 04 Oct 2008 14:53 BST
Days 243 - 248 Monday 29th September – Saturday 4th October 2008
We have really enjoyed our last week in San Remo – or is it Sanremo ? We’ve been here two weeks now and we are still not sure. On maps and signposts it seems to be either.
However, we’ve found out why this area is called the Riviera of Flowers – it is the main centre for flower production in this region. The surrounding hillsides high up behind the town are covered in green houses and plastic tents and produce huge amounts of various varieties of flowers for sale all round the world. We are out of season now, but when they are in full bloom it must be a marvellous sight.
We’ve also found out how to cross the busy roads in the town centre. Go to the zebra crossing as normal but don’t rely on the traffic stopping or you’ll be there all day, wait for the slightest break in the traffic then step firmly out with eyes riveted on the other side and don’t stop for anything, particularly ignore all squeals of tyres and don’t be tempted to look at the traffic – it’s the only way you can get across. You do, however, have to look out for the motor scooters – there are hundreds of them everywhere zooming at you from all directions and most scooter riders seem totally crackers and are even worse than the car drivers.
Went east along the coast in the car, being zapped on all sides by scooters, and found delightful towns and villages. Imperia was the largest, very industrial in the centre of the town and seafront with some lovely, beachy parts either side and Diano Marina was a very pretty beach town further on along the coast. Our favourite was Cervo, a small village literally hanging on to the edge of the hillside overlooking the sea. Spectacular position with great views from the Clavesana Castle walls at the top, reached by very narrow lanes and ancient steps. The contrast of light and shade in these areas gives the town its other name – Painter’s Heaven. Also at the top of the village and dominating the skyline is the beautiful Church of the Corallini, which is the best Baroque monument of Western Liguria apparently. In summer evenings the Church Square is transformed into the stage of the International Chamber Music Festival, hosting world famous musicians.
This is a lovely part of the Italian Riviera and we preferred the east side of San Remo rather than the west.
Had another hot day by the pool, and another one down on the beach here watching the waves washing over the huge rocks that line the sea edge – it’s a bit like looking into a real log fire in winter, you can do it for hours.
We went back into town one evening for a meal at the restaurant we chose last week – it was closed! Never mind - we found another one tucked away down a little narrow street, really lovely food, no English spoken, brill.
Drove back into France to Monte Carlo about thirty minutes away. First came here together when we were 19 and 24 ! We’ve been back a few times since but never tire of sitting outside the Café de Paris, opposite the Hotel de Paris, by the Casino and watching the world go by.
Drove straight up to the Palace in Monaco, parked the car and went into the Palace. Never been in before and it was well worth the 9€ each which also gives you entry to the Palace Museum and Archives. Beautiful rooms in the Palace with evidence of the love held for Princess Grace at every turn. Saw the Changing of the Guard as we came out and then walked down thought the narrow streets to the Harbour area of Monte Carlo.
There have been some changes since we were last here – there are new harbour walls and the two landmark little lighthouses have gone completely. Took a ferry taxi from the harbour round to the back of the Casino which we’ve not done before, bargain at 1€ each.
Anne wanted to have a glass of Café de Paris sparkling wine sitting outside the Café de Paris, just for the crack, but balked at paying 11€ for one glass when you can buy a bottle in the supermarkets for 4€. Never mind, a beer and a glass of red was enjoyed just as much. Sat watching the Ferraris and Maseratis cruise by full of the beautiful idle rich, then – back off in the Alhambra to the caravan for us, the just idle!
George has become famous amongst the staff on the caravan site. The electric supply here is only 3amps – that’s not much, to the uninitiated. As we are here for two weeks (and not many people seem to be here for more than a few days) it means that we keep forgetting and accidentally tripping the fuse in the locked box outside the caravan by switching too much on at once, so we (George!) has to go to reception to get someone to come out, unlock the box, trip the switch back and re-lock the box. They won’t let us have a key. Whenever we go into reception, even if it’s for a bus ticket or map, they say “electric?” If we see one particular man, his hand is in his pocket reaching for his key before we’ve even said anything. Fame at last.
Went to the far side of San Remo to visit Villa Nobel. It was bought by Alfred Nobel in 1891 – a large very pretty villa in its own grounds by the sea. He built a laboratory in the grounds and conducted experiments until he died there in 1896 aged 63. The researcher and discoverer was mainly famous for developing safer explosives but was also a pioneer in many diverse fields of study.
His work, and businesses, with explosives, particularly nitro-glycerine, made possible some of the greatest accomplishments of that century - train tunnels, artificial canals, installation of harbours, and most famously enabled the Saint Gothard tunnel to be built on time and on budget – the first large tunnel where dynamite had been used, it was the first major link between north and south in the Alps. It is 15k long and took over eight years to build. More than 2000 miners took part in the construction, 200 of them were killed due to poor working conditions.
The Villa is now a museum dedicated to his life and works and also contains his will – he left his considerable fortune in a fund, the interest of which was to be distributed annually in the form of prizes to those who, during the preceding year, had conferred the greatest benefit on mankind in five categories – Physics, Chemistry, Physiology or Medicine, Literature, and Peace - The Nobel prizes - which are awarded on 10th December each year, the anniversary of his death.
The Villa also contains some of his own furniture arranged in the study, a sitting room and bedroom, and now hosts various events and exhibitions throughout the year. Entry was free.
A real highlight at the caravan site was the impromptu rehearsal/performance one evening of a German Youth Brass Band just outside the bar. They were all staying in the chalets here and were due to perform in one of the main squares in San Remo the next day. We sat out on the leafy terrace listening to great music for about an hour as the sun went down. When they began a lovely rendition of “Oh Happy Day” Anne’s contact lenses got a thorough washing – how lucky we are to be sitting here, how lucky we are to be on this trip - how lucky we are.
We are really glad we stayed here for two weeks - in one of our books San Remo was described as a City of Layers and that is exactly right. In one week we would not have peeled away as many of them as we have after two weeks and we would definitely come here again. It is a lovely city with beautiful buildings, practically no English people and none of the brash, in your face, tourism of some places we’ve been to.
Had a meal in the restaurant here tonight, our last evening.
Off to Tuscany tomorrow for three weeks and looking forward to receiving guests.
MORE PHOTOS – CLICK HERE
Sunday, September 28
First week at San Remo
by
George and Anne
on Sun 28 Sep 2008 21:21 BST
Days 236 - 241 Monday 22nd September – Sunday 28th September 2008
The congestion on the site here is now much less – loads of people left on Monday so it doesn’t seem as crowded. We think they had hung on to see the air show and then moved on the next day. Good. The afternoons are very entertaining with quite a few new arrivals but most of them are only here for one night. Good.
We have really warmed to San Remo, known as the tourist centre of the Riviera dei Fiori, Riviera of Flowers. Went for a long walk, into the town centre along the seaside, all round the sea-front area, into the vast marina and out the other side. The part of the town centre just back from the sea front is not particularly large and is dominated by the Casino, churches (including a Russian Orthodox) and about four or five large hotels on the western side, where the caravan site is, and two huge marinas housing about eight hundred boats on the eastern side. There is also a permanent covered fruit and veg market in the centre with a twice weekly peddlers’ market. The town centre proper has some lovely streets lined with quaint shops, cafes and restaurants, with designer boutiques mixed in. The Casino also hosts various events in art, culture, theatre and exhibitions.
When we walked into the little central railway station building by the seafront and walked through onto where the platform should have been we were surprised to find another road and no tracks! Apparently, the railway line has been moved up behind the town into a tunnel and the old railway track is in the process of being made into a walking/cycling path. The area going out of town heading east has already been completed and they are in the throws of doing the rest. When finished it will be a super facility – about 15k trail along the old railway line route, covered in tarmac, for walking and cycling along the coast. We’ll have to come back with bikes one day.
The rocky shoreline gives way to beaches fronting the town which all seem to be private. At the marina end there is a huge sandy beach which is only accessible by going through manned barriers, or cafes – and paying! At our end of the town there is a succession of private beaches run by the cafes they are joined to. At the caravan site there is a lovely pool area and the seaside rocky beach area and, as the weather has been mixed, we tended to stay here for swimming. Apart from the first couple of days which were cloudy, we have usually had a clear blue sky in the mornings then cloudier from mid afternoon – but it’s always been warm.
The old town Medieval area, or the Pigna (pine cone), clings to the steep hillside away from the sea front area and is a maze of very old buildings very close together – lots of narrow alleyways, with long flights of steps - it was built this way to deter marauding pirates. We spent a lot of time getting lost in them but found lovely tiny little cafes - more like someone’s front room – small sunny squares, ancient churches, artist workshops and very inviting restaurants - we have chosen a restaurant to go back and eat in next week.
Had a drive west along the coast road through some lovely little towns – Ospedalettti in particular – very scenic drive, mostly high up above the sea with the road sweeping down into the town centres at sea level.
There has been great excitement in the town at the end of this week as San Remo has been hosting a leg of the Intercontinental Rally Challenge for S2000, Groups N, A and A7 cars if that means anything to anyone. We saw lots of dressed up Peugeot 207s, Polos, Clios and apparently the cars cost anything up to 200,000€ each. This event takes place from April to November in 10 locations round the world starting in Turkey and ending in China. Judging by the number of teams, car manufacturers and sponsors there is a serious amount of money involved in this. Over three days the Rally Cars zoom off on timed runs round different routes of the local area – starting and ending right in the town centre. The roads in town were not closed to normal traffic and it was very amusing to see the Rally cars coming back - weaving in and out of busses taxis and normal cars through the town to get to the finish line. The Italians all drive as if they are racing anyway so it all seemed to work fine. A large area of the sea-front was designated as The Service Park where the teams’ mechanics etc were set up. There was no crowd control here and we could just wander amongst it all. The officials had whistles which they blew whenever a car was approaching – at speed! We found it very entertaining walking round and seeing it all, never having been to anything like it before.
Have enjoyed a couple of hot sunny days round the pool here – it has never been crowded and at one end you can lie and enjoy super views out over the ocean. Very relaxing.
Sunday 28th September – Nina, James and Hector move to their new house near Purley, Surrey, today. We wish them every happiness in their new home and can’t wait to visit them there.
We are staying here for another week and plan to explore east along the coast and some of the inland villages.
CLICK HERE FOR NEW PHOTOS
Sunday, September 21
San Raphael to San Remo
by
George and Anne
on Sun 21 Sep 2008 23:12 BST
Day 235 Sunday 21st September 2008
Moving day today – and Nina’s 29th birthday. Little did we think, at this time last year, that on her next birthday she would be a mother, and we really miss not seeing her on her birthday.
Anyway – It poured with rain again overnight here so waited for things to clear up a bit before departing at a leisurely pace for the short trip, under two hours, to San Remo. A very scenic journey, four small tolls on the way – 3.60€, 4.10€,2€ and 3€.
We duly took the San Remo turn off the motorway, still high up overlooking the sparkling sea – and there it all went wrong….. came to a t-junction - instant decision required. We had a 50/50 chance and we blew it and ended up taking the wrong road down to the sea front instead of going the main road way to San Remo centre and then going along the coast a bit.
However, after at least ten narrow hairpin bends and a lot of sweat and anguish (Anne) and a lot of white knuckles on the steering wheel and very tight jaw line (George) we made it down and found the caravan site signs – a really sharp right-hand turn back on ourselves to get on the approach road (no problem after what we’d just gone through) and arrived at the entrance…… and then carried on past it as it looked more like the exit. It had a no-entry sign on the gate post so we kept driving and ended up at a dead end! A three point turn followed, yes, really three – the road was wide luckily, we entered the site and were allocated a pitch. (Still don’t know what the dead end sign relates to!)
This site is a total contrast to the last one. It is completely paved, with trees and small bushes growing out of the paviours. The marked pitches are very small, just enough room for the caravan with the car next to it, and very close together. It is also virtually full! We unhitched and pushed the caravan onto the pitch with the help of two very nice Dutch men (although it’s very easy on paviours), put the kettle on as soon as we could and started to calm down and relax.
Although the pitches on this site are not ideal, the facilities here are brilliant – beautifully tiled modern washrooms, lovely swimming pool, restaurant, bar – and a lovely pebble beach right by the sea - although the coastline is rocky here. Marvellous.
When we arrived there was an airshow in progress in San Remo town just down the road so we went out on the beach here and watched it for a while (Anne with her fingers firmly in her ears). It turned out to be a fantastic show out over the bay with much of the action just in front of our beach. The finale was a great show by the Italian equivalent of the Red Arrows but with red white and green smoke!
Had a nice meal in the site restaurant which was packed with loud Italians and had a nice atmosphere. One spag bol, one pizza, bowl of frites, bread and a bottle of wine. Good food and good service for 26€. Not bad.
Lovely sunny day. We are due to stay here for two weeks – looking forward to exploring the area which neither of us has been to before.
Saturday, September 20
Antheor near St Raphael
by
George and Anne
on Sat 20 Sep 2008 23:35 BST
Days 229 - 234 Monday 14th – Saturday 20th September 2008
Have had a great week here in the San Raphael area – the caravan site, Camping du Viaduc, is actually in Antheor, an area right by the sea just outside the small town of Agay which in turn is just east along the coast from the larger resort town of San Raphael. It’s backdrop is the famous pink sandstone rock of the Esterel Mountains and in front the sparkling blue Med - a lovely spot at the end of the Cote d’Esterel, which then turns into the Cote d’Azur spreading along the coast to Antibes, Cannes, Nice and Monaco.
Spent a day in San Raphael, walking along the seafront promenade and looking round the town – quite busy, the weather was hot and sunny. Visited the beautiful Basilica of Notre-Dame de la Victoire built mainly out of the local pink sandstone with fabulous, and quite modern, stained glass windows.
Found out why a Basilica is called a Basilica – do you know? Well - are you sitting comfortably? …........... then we’ll begin ……….. a Parish Church is the church of a community entrusted to a Priest; a Chapel is a small church; an Abbey is run by an Abbot and a Cathedral is the church of a Bishop. The term Basilica is added to any of the above as a mark of special recognition and is the highest honour that can be bestowed - and can only be bestowed by the Pope himself. Four major Basilicas are in Rome. Currently there are 1,478 Basilicas in the world of which116 are in France. Here endeth the first Lesson.
The town of Frejus joins up with San Raphael from the west and its seafront is lined with the usual tourist bars cafes and gift shops. As you walk to the San Raphael end, the seafront changes to smarter hotels and restaurants with a quieter more up-market atmosphere. We ended up on the beach here for a couple of hours topping up our tans which had faded somewhat after six weeks in the UK. Out of the main seaside resorts we visited this week, St Raphael was our favourite with its esplanade, lovely sandy beach, very friendly beach bar, relatively easy parking and although busy it never seemed crowded.
We went to Nice on the train for a day, stopping at Cannes on the way back. We got on the train just up the road from the caravan site and then rode over the big viaduct which gives our caravan site its name – see photos. The train was surprisingly small, old, crowded and tatty (although on time) and we stood all the way. The one hour journey along the coast, however, was made more bearable by the great views of the many seaside towns (15 stops) and sea views along the way. Cost, zero – nobody seemed to want to sell us a ticket, a bit like Flax Bourton to Weston-super-Mare.
We found Nice very bustling, very windy, crowded and not particularly attractive with its stony beach although we really enjoyed walking up into the high gardens at the east end of the seafront, overlooking the port. We then got lost walking down a different way and found ourselves in the narrow backstreets of the old town – much more appealing and enjoyable to us.
We enjoyed Cannes more – although it was also busy and very windy. The seafront strip was lined with large hotels with their own private beach areas -we didn’t explore the town but had a couple of hours on the beach. George was reminiscing about how he spent a week with a mate from uni sleeping on the harbour wall in Cannes in his hitch hiking days. They had been moved on from Monte Carlo as vagrants.
The railway station at Nice was quite big and not very user-friendly. We had trouble finding the correct platform for our return journey. Had an interesting conversation with a young Dutch lad who had the platform number printed on his ticket, but all the platforms were actually designated by letters! – we thought we were being dumb but actually the French travellers didn’t seem any better at it than us. The train ride back was on a big double-decker jobbie – clean, fast and comfortable – and it only stopped at about four stations before ours. Had to pay this time though 5.20€ each and then 4.70€ each for the last train from Cannes back to Antheor later.
Went west to San Tropez one day. About a one hour drive and the traffic was horrendous. We passed through San Maxime on the way which seemed an attractive place. San Tropez itself was as we remembered it from the last time we were here - nearly forty years ago – full of traffic, tourists and expensive shops, busy and tired looking. Quite a nice walk along the water front and marina, viewing the work of the artists who set up here and, of course, the massive boats lining the quay. We heard a lot of American being spoken and think most of it had originated from the cruise ship in the bay, one of the huge Voyagers. We got away from the town and found a little beach by the road where we could relax for a while. To avoid the traffic nightmare of the coast road back we headed inland through Cogolin and a gorgeous scenic route through the mountains.
Spent our last day here on the beach – just across the road and underneath the viaduct from the caravan site – lovely blue sky until about 8.00pm when it started raining. We don’t mind, we are off tomorrow for the short hop to San Remo – just into the Italian Riviera – looking forward to exploring that coastline.
We have belatedly discovered that we can connect to the internet just down the road at the other caravan site which saves us going to McDonalds in San Raphael, so you should now be quite up to date !
SEE NEW PHOTOS - CLICK HERE
Sunday, September 14
Avignon to St Raphael
by
George and Anne
on Sun 14 Sep 2008 23:02 BST
Days 228 Sunday 14th September 2008
Set off bright and early, well bright anyway, and headed southeast towards Aix-en-Provence on the relatively short (just over two hours) trip to the south coast, staying near St Raphael for a week.
We left in windy, cloudy weather and a quite chilly 17 degrees. Very windy conditions for the first hour but by the time we were half way the clouds had cleared and the temperature had risen to 24 degrees, that’s more like it.
Toll charge 7€40, we stopped for coffee en route, next toll 15€60.
From St Raphael we travelled along the ‘route des golfs’ passing several nice looking courses (which we won’t be playing this time) and had a gorgeous last ten minute drive along the coast road through Agay and duly arrived at the small caravan site we had emailed with our booking. Great initial impressions – restaurant with terrace, bar, shop and swimming pool, just across the road from a small sandy bay. They had a list of people they were expecting but our name wasn’t on it! The chap said they had one pitch left and took us to have a look – oh dear – the site was small, which we knew, but the caravans and tents were crammed close together and the pitch we were offered was in a small corner, in the dark, under trees. Basically we didn’t like the look of it – or how we’d get the caravan onto it.
The options didn’t seem very attractive – either try and get the caravan onto this small, dark, pokey pitch or drive away and try to find another caravan site. We walked across the road to look at the sea and think about it – which is when we saw a sign for another site only 150 metres up the hill. The sign looked tatty but you can’t always judge a book by its cover! We walked up to have a look and loved it. No shop, restaurant, bar or swimming pool but lots of sunny space in a woodland setting – so for the first time this trip we rejected our planned caravan site and found an alternative!
The only downside is that the cost is 19€ per night instead of the camping cheque rate of about 15€, also no wi-fi. However, the owners, a lovely older French couple made us very welcome and told us to put the caravan wherever we liked. This site is almost adjacent to the other one near the beach and we can use their shop anyway, so we ended up in a win-win situation – doesn’t happen often does it………….
It’s lovely to be back by the sea and we are looking forward to exploring the area.
Saturday, September 13
Popes Palace and the Pont
by
George and Anne
on Sat 13 Sep 2008 23:33 BST
Days 222 - 227 Monday 7th September – Saturday 13th September 2008
CLICK HERE FOR PHOTOS
Have really enjoyed our time in this area – spent more time looking round the Ancient City of Avignon, including a ride on the Petit Train-Train which goes on a forty minute tour of the main areas complete with English commentary all for 7€ each. We were left with an impression of a busy and lively city but very much a working city. Tourists were certainly well catered for with the old historic areas and designer shops but the streets and pavement cafes seemed to be mainly full of locals and the atmosphere was relaxed and friendly.
The main building, dominating the Avignon skyline, is the Palais des Papes, Palace of the Popes - the biggest Gothic Palace in Europe - dating from the 14th century. It was built by nine successive Popes and was the seat of the Christian world at that time. It is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was a powerful fortress and a magnificent Palace. Today, part of it houses an International Conference Centre and the Department of Archives. Twenty-five rooms are open to the public. Anne was a bit disappointed as they were just that - stone rooms with no furnishings, and although we had audio guides in English, all the detailed information boards were only in French,. It is a huge building with a complicated history and if you are interested in finding out more you could look at www.palais-des-papes.com
We decided to visit the Palais and the Pont Saint Benezet (pont d’Avignon, bridge, as in the song) for 26€ package for both of us. The bridge was first built during the 12th century and has often been damaged by raging flood waters and was finally abandoned in the 17th century so today it comes to a dead end three-quarters of the way across the River Rhone. Only four arches remain out of the original twenty-four as the bridge used to span both branches of the Rhone and Barthelasse Island in between, where our caravan site is – in fact George reckons it went straight over the line of tennis courts in the middle of the site.
On Thursday we took ourselves on a wine tour – all the local villages and towns round here grow grapes, produce wine or sell it. We started at Tavel, famous for Rose where we followed one of the dozens of signs to a Rose Cave and ended up in a farmer’s kitchen tasting wonderful Rose with a jolly grape grower who spoke no English. Lots of hand signals and Franglais ensued and of course we bought some bottles. We had brought some empty 8 litre containers with us and were really looking for somewhere to fill them up at a reasonable rate so next stop was a big commercial outlet selling wine from big tanks with nozzles like petrol pumps – marvellous – bought more great tasting Rose and Cotes du Rhone, average price just over 1€ per litre. Terrific!
We then went on to Orange to have a look at the famous Roman remains, particularly the 10,000 seater Amphitheatre of which the original front wall is mostly intact. Spectacular opera concerts and events are still regularly held here.
Then it was on to the beautiful little Medieval village of Chateauneuf du Pape on the hunt for some of the good stuff at a bargain price! On the way we stopped at the side of the road in the sun to have the coffee and baguettes we’d brought with us, vineyards as far as the eye could see in all directions. The Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards are very distinctive because the ground around the vines is covered with pebbles. The pebbles soak up the heat from the sun during the day and release it overnight.
George got out looking at the grapes which were right by the road. Next thing we knew a police car had pulled up behind us - the two policemen had obviously seen George chewing and thought he was eating the grapes. They asked if we knew that all these grapes belonged to Chateauneuf du Pape and we explained in our best French that the only things we were eating were our baguettes. Communication was difficult but eventually they seemed happy enough and tried to chat about where we were staying etc. No problem. Let this be a warning to you – don’t eat any grapes at the side of the road, the Wine Police are watching!
The village itself nestles beneath what is left of the enormous Chateau Tower up on the hill (visible from the high gardens of the Popes Palace in Avignon 20 kms away). Every other shop seemed to be a wine cave, but quality rather than quantity is the order of the day here - with prices to match.
The weather has been hot and muggy but changed dramatically overnight on Thursday with sheeting rain and a spectacular thunderstorm. Cosy in the caravan but we felt a bit sorry for some of the tenters nearby. George was planning to wash the caravan but no need now.
Having explored Avignon which is one side of the Rhone, we thought we better have a look around Villeneuve lez Avignon which is across the other side. This is where the famous bridge used to end and in particular it ended at a tall tower which at one time controlled access to the bridge. We braved climbing the spiral staircase to the top of the Tour Philippe le Bel and enjoyed the incredible views back across the Rhone, divided by the island, to Avignon, the Popes Palace and the remains of the other end of the bridge.
The rest of the town was dominated by a hill top fortress, Le Fort Saint Andre, and the Chartreuse Pontificale du Val de Benediction, a huge Carthusian Monastery. Saturday was market day, Anne can home in on markets from 10 kms away, and this market seemed to be entirely old furniture, bric a brac and silverware. The weather was sunny, the town was crowded so it seemed rude not to sit for a while and watch the world go by over a café crème.
This has been an excellent stopover site on our way to the Riviera made all the more enjoyable by meeting up with Margaret and John. The showers could be hotter and the wi-fi cheaper but the site is in a brilliant position and the free ferry shuttle into Avignon is a real bonus.
Tomorrow we move on to the beaches of the French Riviera.
Sunday, September 7
First few days in Avignon
by
George and Anne
on Sun 07 Sep 2008 23:17 BST
Days 220 - 221 Saturday 6th September – Sunday 7th September 2008
It absolutely poured down on Saturday during our first walk to get our bearings and the free ferry wasn’t running because of a big security operation along the river bank, there were gendarmes everywhere. Apparently there was a meeting of EEC Ministers going on in the Palace of the Popes, expect they were awarding themselves some extra expenses. Despite the rain we could see what a beautiful spot this is and the site is really convenient for the city.
The camp site itself is very pleasant with quite large hedged and shady pitches. Typical for a municipal site the washroom facilities are a bit basic but certainly adequate. The on site swimming pool looks good and of course we are now back to low season so no kids about. Internet Wi-Fi is available on site near reception but it’s a bit expensive, 2€ for 30 minutes, 3.5€ for 1 hour, 19€ for a week. Mind you, John noticed it seemed to be stuck on one evening so we both took advantage of that. More barbeques and more wine.
On Sunday the sky was clear blue and the sun was hot. This is more like it! We headed for the city but this time the ferry wasn’t working because the current was too strong so we walked to the nearest bridge and made it anyway. First impressions were very good. The walled city is a maze of narrow streets and we found our way to a big square in front of the Palace of the Popes, an awesome looking building to visit another day. We spent 2 hours in a café in the square soaking in the atmosphere and a few beers as well. Reassuringly the ferry was running to get us back, they run every 10 minutes and take about 3 minutes to cross, great fun. George tried out the pool and reported warm water.
George’s turn to barbeque tonight and more wine.
We have enjoyed a lovely couple of days with John and Margaret and they set off towards home tomorrow morning. We are now looking forward to exploring Avignon and this lovely part of Provence over the next six days.
Friday, September 5
Off We Go Again
by
George and Anne
on Fri 05 Sep 2008 23:15 BST
Days 214 - 219 Sunday 31st August – Friday 5th September 2008
Left Grays and headed off to Dover to catch the 11.05 ferry to Calais. We booked a day return ticket for £49 – it will be interesting to see if we are charged any extra for not using the return leg as they ‘reserve the right to’. Had a calm and sunny crossing despite a terrible weather forecast and started to make our way south through France.
Two tolls – 18.90€ and 24.90€
Stopped at Dole, southwest of Dijon, for one night, Etap Hotel 48.50€ for the room.
Left the next day in cloud and rain. Filled up with diesel for 1.41€ per litre, (about £1.15, still cheaper than UK but not massively) We are heading for Geneva to stay with old (!) friends Pam and Julian for three nights. Thought we’d try the scenic route over the mountains of the Jura, however things did not go to plan. We were fine until we stopped for coffee in Morez then it all went a bit pear shaped. The road was closed at one point so we had to follow a long detour (it shouldn’t have been as long but George was navigating …….) then TomTom decided to take us straight down to the lake at Nyon, off-plan again, so we (Anne ...…..) ended up driving through Geneva centre at rush hour. Never mind - glad we weren’t towing the caravan though.
Pam and Julian have lived here for many years since leaving the UK and have a super house in Veyrier. It’s lovely to see them all again - their daughter Rachel, who has her own flat in Geneva, came over for a barbeque on our first night and we had a great time catching up on all the news. Baby talk ruled for a while but we tried to give them the shortened version – honest !
Had a really relaxing few days – including a ride out to Evoire – a very pretty little village on the banks of Lake Geneva, but in France. Lots of beautiful geraniums hanging from balconies shop fronts, and historic buildings.
Another barbeque, a meal out at a local restaurant and we were saying our goodbyes all too soon after having a great stay – many thanks both, lets get together again soon somehow.
Set off south and followed the Rhone most of the way. Two tolls – 13.90€ and 22.10€.
Stayed overnight at Beziers, about an hour away from where our caravan was in storage. Another Etap, 45.70€, and no extra charge for the overnight thunderstorm.
Drove off next morning, very excited to be getting back to the caravan. Filled up with diesel for 1.35€ a litre, it’s getting slightly cheaper. The weather improved, we collected the caravan and set off towards our first stop in Avignon. Some friends from Weston Rotary Club, Margaret and John Horler, are meeting us there for a few nights. They have been motor-homing and caravanning for over forty years and have been a mine of information for us when we were planning this trip.
The first part of the route towing was retracing our steps back from the storage at Labastide Rouairoux to Beziers along mountain roads through spectacular scenery. George soon got back into towing mode and the car handled the steepish climbs and tight bends really well.
Then it was motorway all the way to the Avignon junction. Tom-Tom led us perfectly around the complicated bridge system to the city camp site where we arrived mid afternoon. Two tolls – 9.20€ and 7.80€.
Total tolls from home were 96.80€ but most of these were car only. Tolls are usually about double with the caravan on the back Total mileage driven from UK was 1,071.
The site, Camping Avignon du Pont is actually between two parts of the Rhone on Barthelasse Island, just opposite what’s left of the famous ‘pont’ and a short free ferry hop from the beautiful walled old city of Avignon on one side and Villeneuve lez Avignon on the other. Margaret and John had arrived the day before and had kindly saved us a pitch next to them. They have been on a site near St Tropez for the last five weeks or so and are heading back.
We had a lot of sorting out to do in the caravan – we had taken all our clothes, bedding, towels, tea towels and throws back with us to the UK and had wedged other stuff in cupboards and under the bed ready for storage. All this had to come out and be sorted along with all the other things we had brought with us from the uk – clothes, shoes, bedding, tins, packets etc. but no golf clubs or trolleys this time. We had only played six or seven times since we left in January and decided that they were not worth using up valuable space on, so we have a bit more room to play about with now.
John barbequed for us all in the evening and we had a great time catching up on all the news from Weston and drinking copious amounts of French wine.
Friday, August 8
Essex Interlude
by
George and Anne
on Fri 08 Aug 2008 20:56 BST
Days 163-213 Friday 11 July – Saturday 30th August 08
Having a good time at Anne’s Mum’s house in Essex. Have done the visiting rounds – local, London, Westcliff-on-Sea, Galleywood etc. Also have had visits to Pimlico to visit Nina and James and meet up with Jonathan at the same time. Nina seems very well and certainly doesn’t look over eight months pregnant – Anne’s tummy is still bigger than hers !
We have joined the local gym which is attached to the Blackshotts Lane swimming pool complex. We go every morning and finish off with a swim and session in the steam room. Anne hadn’t been in that pool for about forty years but it doesn’t seem to have changed much.
Had a two night visit to Bristol - staying with Cathy and John who had visited us in Biarritz. We had expected to be sleeping in a tent in the garden (they had slept in the caravan awning!) but we were allowed to use the lovely guest bedroom.
Enjoyed visiting a few of our neighbours in Flax Bourton and checked our house is still standing. Harry Panther, our cat, was there and we think he was pleased to see us. He’s being spoilt rotten by everybody of course.
Went to Weston to a lunchtime barbeque at Carol and Roy Schubert’s house – Roy is the new president of the Rotary Club of Weston-super-Mare and we had a super time seeing lots of friend and catching up on all the news and gossip.
Played golf with Cathy and John at our own golf club on the last morning – only problem was that we had suspended our membership for the year away so we had to pay a guest fee ! Needless to say the girls beat the boys……..
This was the day the Weston pier caught fire so we had drive along the sea front before heading back to London. What a mess, very sad but it looked recoverable.
Day 183 - Yippee - Our first grandchild has arrived safely.
Introducing Hector Jay Steel
Born to Nina and James 31st July 2008 – 10.57am – 6lbs 13.5oz
Daughter Nina approached childbirth as she does life – at 100 miles an hour ! – did the biz in record time and they are both really well.
He is a perfect little cutie and as good as gold – so far ………
What a miracle new life is.
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Managed another visit to Bristol – staying two nights with Pam and Lester who had visited us (in the awning) in Lisbon - and we were allowed to stay in the super guest bedroom – result! Squeezed in a coffee with friend Helen, and a meal with friends Linda and John and caught up on all their news.
Played golf at Tall Pines on one of the days, Horsfields v Biffins. Despite playing brilliantly, we lost on the 18th hole - well, we couldn’t beat the people who were giving us a bed for the night could we….……
Have had a lovely last four weeks with baby Hector and the family – all of us fighting over whose turn it is to cuddle him and gaze into his perfect little face. He is an absolute darling and it is really lovely to witness Nina and James’s happiness.
We will miss them, and all our family, very much when we resume our travels but will pop back on a cheap flight when we can. The caravan is calling from far far away……… ferry is booked for tomorrow morning.
.
Thursday, July 10
European Tour Break
by
George and Anne
on Thu 10 Jul 2008 23:56 BST
Days 158-162 Sunday 6 - Thursday 10 July 08
Left at 7.30am for an early getaway. Light drizzle which wasn’t very helpful – but very satisfying as it’s not so good to leave somewhere when the weather is brill. We really enjoyed our time here – before it got too busy – it’s a really lovely area and we are sorry to leave but are looking forward to our trip north.
Heading now for the caravan storage place, an hour east of Toulouse. Motorway (and rain) all the way to Toulouse, then a single lane road for and hour after that. Stopped a few times and arrived just after two o’clock.
The storage is in a former textile mill run by a young Dutch couple - they have room for nearly 100 caravans and live in the big house on the same site - 80% of the caravans stored here are owned by Dutch people because of the ease of language - the Dutch are very keen caravanners. Storage charge 28€ per month. We were taken in to view the storage area, a huge light airy barn with caravans neatly stored in rows – we have requested that our Lunar be put next to another English van so they can exchange stories but the owner said that all Dutch can speak English anyway so that wouldn’t be a problem ……….. perhaps we have been away to long …………..
Left the caravan there rather sadly - having lived in it for nearly six months it seemed very strange to leave it behind.
Set off for Castres, less than an hour away. When we were planning this trip we watched as many travel programmes about European destinations as we could and put a circle round towns and cities in the atlas that we liked the look of in case we ended up near any of them – Castres was one of these. It is a beautiful ancient town built along the River Agout. In the middle ages the famous town houses built hanging over the water on both sides of the river were originally occupied by weavers, dyers, tanners and dressmakers who made the town wealthy through the textile industry.
Found an amazing hotel, Hotel de Europe, right in the town centre. If any of you have been to Abaco Cocktail Bar in Majorca or one of the Bacchus Bars in London, the décor of the hotel was in exactly the same style – totally over the top, crammed with plants, antique style furniture, tapestries and ornate decoration. A room with private facils and a bath (oh joy) for 55€. Walked out along the river in the evening and found a lovely little restaurant in one of the old town houses practically hanging over the water – great food too.
After a further wander round the town and numerous baths we left around lunchtime on Tuesday and set off continuing north travelling through acres and acres of sunflowers – huge areas of tall green plants with their bright yellow heads all looking the same way.
Stopped at nearby Albi, alongside the Tarn River - another holiday programme ring. In the 15th century it became famous for being the main area supplying the woad plant, the leaves of which were used to create an indelible blue colour for use in fabric dyeing. Many of the towns’ residents made their fortunes by producing the plant to supply the textile industry and built many large grand houses still there today. The city’s Sainte-Cecile Cathedral is the world’s largest brick built cathedral and the interior décor is entirely painted rather than carved. We found it breathtaking. From the river it reminded us of Palma Cathedral. Toulouse-Lautrec was born in Albi and the museum houses a big exhibition of his work – donated by his mother when he died, after they were refused by the Louvre! We loved the town and would like to come back and spend more time in the area.
Carried on up through the Massif Central and stopped for the night at St Flour, just off the motorway and found Hotel Ander which had a spare room but only a shower, no bath (boo) for 49€. Weather not very good so got the internet working, had a cheap meal, went to bed.
Left in the morning in better weather and continued north through the Loire Valley
to Fontainebleau, 60k from Paris and surrounded by forest which used to be the French King’s hunting ground. Headed straight to the town centre looking for a hotel, turned a corner and there was the huge Palace in all its glory. A truly magnificent building, or collection of buildings, oldest parts of which date from 1137 medieval times. It was about to close for the evening so we stayed in a hotel nearby – Etap, the French equivalent of a travel lodge, basic room with bath (more joy) for 40€.
We both had an urge for a Chinese meal and found there was a brilliant one just 50 yards away. Had a super meal, sitting in the window, and were entertained by the goings on over the road - a beautiful apartment building guarded by enormous ornate iron gates. Halfway through our meal the gates opened automatically as a car was leaving – or trying to – another car (now empty) had parked outside on the street right across the entrance. The car driver was on her mobile telephone in an instant and stood looking daggers up and down the road for the owner. We were looking forward to seeing what she’d do to them when they returned. Another car then wanted to leave and had to queue up behind the first one – what fun ! About an hour later the police arrived, then the tow truck. The car was taken away and we sadly had to leave the restaurant before the car owner returned. Would have loved to see the expression on their face.
Next morning we checked out of the hotel and headed back into town to the Palace for breakfast on the tea room veranda - by the lake in one of the courtyards in the sun, marvellous – then went to see inside ….. awesome place, beautifully kept and displayed with many rooms open for viewing – including Marie Antoinette’s bedroom, the Empresses bedchamber, the 50ft gallery/library, ballroom, beautiful chapel, and the sumptuous throne room. Originally built as a castle, over the years it has been modified/added to and became the Royal Residence of French Kings Henri IV and the four Louis. After the Revolution Napoleon Bonaparte lived in the palace and it was at the bottom of the horseshoe shaped grand staircase leading up to the main entrance (see photos) that he made his farewell speech as he was sent into exile. We walked round with an audio guide each and came out about two hours later marvelling at what we’d seen.
Left the town early afternoon and headed for Epernay, just south of Rheims, the Champagne capital of France. Had a lovely journey on long straight roads through huge open fields– we’ve tried to avoid the motorways (and tolls) as we haven’t got the caravan with us. The sunflower fields have turned into grape vines, three types for champagne – Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Arrived in Epernay - a busy, bustling working town and headed straight for the tourist info office to find out about tours. Anne had last been here 44 years ago with her parents and brothers. They went on a tour of the Mercier Champagne underground cellars on a little train and she has always wanted to go back.
Stayed in the very basic La Villa Saint Pierre hotel (recently vacated by the Munsters) - 33€ plus 3€ for unlimited wi-fi, checked out in the morning and headed straight for the Avenue de Champagne (music to our ears). Many of the great Champagne Houses are based here, Moet & Chandon, Mercier, Pol Roger, Castellane, Perrier-Jouet etc.
We toured the Mercier caves, founded by Eugene Mercier at the age of twenty and in 1960 it was the first Champagne House to change to stainless steel vats for the fermentation process – four years before Anne’s first visit - the little train is laser guided now! Eugene Mercier was a communication genius and a marketing pioneer making one of the first advertising films ever. He made a massive impact in Paris at the 1889 World Exhibition by displaying the world’s largest wine barrel (containing 200,000 bottles worth – see photo) and as a display it was only beaten into second place by the Eiffel Tower!
We passed through some of the 18k of underground tunnels, hewn by hand out of the chalk, all at a constant temperature of 10 degrees, and now containing several million bottles of champagne at various stages of readiness. We finished the trip with a tasting session in the new modern visitors centre where we made some purchases ready to wet our new grandson’s head. Couldn’t leave the town without a visit to the Moet & Chandon House, we didn’t do the tour this time but managed to make some more purchases in the shop – this child is going to have a very wet head.
Left the town early afternoon and set off for Calais on our last leg, we are booked on the 9.00pm ferry (cheapest deal we could find on the internet, P & O Ferries, £44). Had an eventful journey – the roads didn’t all seem to go where they said they were going (George was navigating) so it took us a while, never mind. Filled up with diesel for 1.39€ (about £1.13), still cheaper than the UK we believe. We arrived in time to have a meal in the Cite de Europe, the massive shopping mall, before heading for the dockside. Boat left on time and we arrived at Anne’s Mum’s house in Grays just after 11.00pm. Total mileage driven since leaving Bristol on 31st January is 4,700 which is not that much really for 5 months, but of course most of it was towing a caravan! We have loved our adventure so far but we are here now to await the big day, August 2nd predicted, so we are signing off for a while – will update the blog as and when we can.
Best wishes, speak to you later …….
SEE LOTS OF NEW PHOTOS – CLICK HERE
Saturday, July 5
Biarritz Finale
by
George and Anne
on Sat 05 Jul 2008 13:46 BST
Days 150-157 Sat 28 June–Sat 5 July 08
Have had a really lovely last week here. Weather has been mostly very hot and sunny, mingled with some heavy rain and cloudy days. It’s much busier on the site now, a noticeable change from the first few weeks here – some French schools have started their holidays early we think as there are lots of children about now.
Filled up with diesel for the first time in four weeks – 1.39 € - nice to see how little we have had to use the car.
The internet wi-fi on the site here seems to have disappeared so we now walk up to the village square and log on to the Hotel’s. No problem.
Found the local golf course – nine holes – on the day that the prices went up to the high season rates, so we didn’t play in the end.
Had a very long walk from the beach just to the north of here right into Biarritz. The weather was quite overcast and the waves were enormous. Lots of (mad) people were surfing and the beach lifeguards certainly had to keep on their toes.
Went south of here for a visit to the bay and town of St Jean-de-Luz. Curved sandy beaches with very calm seas – much more suitable for young children. There was a bustling town behind a seafront promenade lined with the usual cafes and restaurants.
Had a lovely last day round the pool here – absolutely gorgeous sun. Managed to avoid getting roped in for the aqua-aerobics session, but it was fun to watch! Very busy round the pool with all the children on site, but also very entertaining. Topped the tans up nicely.
Settled the bill ready for the off tomorrow. We have been here 28days in all – in the UK for 8 of those @ 4.50€ “caravan morte,” and the other 20 paid by 17 camping cheques (long stay discount) @ 14€, plus .50 cents each per day local tax.
Off early tomorrow to a caravan storage barn just past Toulouse, then will make our leisurely way north, driving without the caravan, and ending up in Essex at Anne’s Mum’s house in a week or so ready for the arrival of our Grandson.
MORE PICTURES – CLICK HERE
Friday, June 27
Biarritz Visitors
by
George and Anne
on Fri 27 Jun 2008 12:19 BST
Days 141-149 Thu 19–Fri 27 June 08
A few days before Cathy and John arrive – have spent the time in the sun round the pool, catching up on a bit of reading and doing some shopping ready for our guests. Also had a lovely meal in the local square here one evening and enjoyed some live music which was part of a Village Music Festival. We meant to go into Biarritz itself to do a bit of research before they arrived but the weather has been too nice !
As before, we are making our guests sing for their supper so here is what they had to say -
Guest Addendum by Cathy and John Alexander, Biarritz Camping.
This is your ace reporter John Alexander giving you the full and truthful account of life in Dartmoor Prison-sorry- in the fabulous warm rain-free awning that the Horsfields have (un)kindly set up for us here in la belle France. We are made to get up at 5.30 in the morning to sweep out the caravan and prepare breakfast for our oppressors-sorry-good friends before we are allowed to scrape up their leftovers as our main source of sustenance. It’s a bargain really as they are only charging us £150 a day each for their company. Words cannot express how grateful we are for their unstinting generosity!
I must warn you that this part of my account has been heavily censored by our warm and loving hosts. Every day has been fun packed. George is an excellent cook on the BBQ. The weather has been variable but warm and we have ventured on to the beach-very nice sand and the waves are quite big-a lot of surfing going on. We have decided to pass the chance of surfing to Lester.
Went on the little choo-choo up to La Rhune. It’s a great big mountain. The carriages had completely open windows We left in clear weather but by the time we had climbed the 905metres to the top it was shrouded in mist. George made the other passengers laugh by taking a photo of a large poster showing the view from the mountain on a clear day. What a cheat.
We have developed a taste for Boules- boys v girls. I have to report that the girls stuffed us at first but the boys have come back big time and the championship all hangs on the final game which we are confident of winning.
Stop-press - we didn’t beat them, jammy women. We were winning but my partner- correction- ex partner played, how shall I put it delicately - CRAP. The result was a bit easier to bear when I remember the beating George and I gave the girls at cards last night.
If I can be serious for a few milliseconds we have had a brilliant time. George and Anne have been brilliant hosts. Our only regret is that we can’t stay any longer. If we get invited again we are coming for a month. Sorry, got to go now- George has just fainted. Can’t think why.
Lots of love, Cathy & John
Brilliant – thanks for that John (ably vetted by Cathy)!
We had a great time too and really enjoyed your company and the time went all too quickly. One highlight for us was going to an International-Standard game of Pelote one evening – a very athletic and spectacular game played, essentially by throwing a ball against a wall with a curved basket-like stick sometimes from 80metres away, by two teams of three players. The fitness and skill involved had to be seen to be believed.
We had some lovely news this week – our previous guest bloggers Pam and Lester Biffin became Grandparents for the first time on 23rd June. Many congratulations to Claire and Alex who are now the proud parents of Tyler George Biffin.
We really like Biarritz – huge sweeping sandy beaches with very big waves ideal for surfers. Apparently one of the biggest beaches here – Plage de la Cote des Basques was the place where surfing first appeared in Europe. It is an exceptional beach surrounded by cliffs overlooking the Spanish coast.
Dominating the Grand Plage (adjacent to the town centre) is the Hotel du Palais which previously was the Imperial Residence of Napoleon III and the Empress Eugenia, and the Casino Municipal which is a superb building of Art Deco style. Behind are lovely leafy squares with lots of restaurants and pavement cafes.
Further on is the landmark lighthouse – Le Phare – built in 1834 and 73meters above sea level. There are 248 steps to the top which Cathy and George climbed to see the amazing views from the top. Anne and John decided to keep their feet firmly on the ground and managed to sneak in an extra coffee in the Lighthouse Café while the others were gone.
It is not surprising that over the years this has been a popular up-market seaside resort for the French. From 1825 the beaches were prepared to receive visitors and famous French and foreign families stayed in Biarritz , including Queen Victoria, Kings Edward VII and Edward VIII. Many castles and magnificent mansions still remain from these prestigious times.
We are here for another week, until July 5th, and are looking forward to exploring more.
See lots of new photographs – CLICK HERE
Thursday, June 19
Back to The UK For Anne's Mum's 90th Birthday
by
George and Anne
on Thu 19 Jun 2008 18:19 BST
Days 131-141 Mon 9 - Thu 19 June 08
Taxi to the airport, no problems with the Ryanair flight to Stansted and arrived to stay with Anne’s Mum. Had a great time – visiting one of my brothers in Galleywood and meeting their new puppy – visiting Nina and James at their flat in Pimlico - food shopping for Mum - shopping trips to Lakeside Shopping Centre – lunch and Rossi’s ice-cream in the sun at Westcliffe-on-Sea –visiting neighbours etc………
………and of course the 90th birthday celebrations. It was a lovely sunny day and lots of family and friends came to see Mum – people made a real effort to be there which was lovely for her. Caterers came and organised a buffet meal in the afternoon and we all really enjoyed ourselves. Nina, James and Jonathan were staying the night so we played silly games to finish off a lovely day. See photos for a few of the guests.
Next day was Sunday so eight of us went off to Mum’s church in the morning where she had a great deal of fuss made of her all over again – then straight out for a Father’s Day lunch.
Stayed at Jonathan’s flat in Clapham on our last night as we had to deliver Anne’s car back to him (!) – then on to Stansted by train the next morning.
We really enjoyed our time in the UK, it went very quickly and we were soon back on the plane to Biarritz. The weather is boiling hot here and forecast to stay that way –but rained last week apparently, so our visit was well timed !
Now looking forward to friends Cathy and John visiting us here soon - we have put the awning up and sorted everything out for them (ie stocked up on booze) !
Off now to have a swim in the pool here, then a snooze in the sun.
See Photos – CLICK HERE
Sunday, June 8
Noja to Biarritz
by
George and Anne
on Sun 08 Jun 2008 23:17 BST
Day 130 Sun 8 June 08
Up bright and early for the journey to Biarritz - not that far, about 160km.
No problem getting off the pitch, pushed the caravan into position with the help of people who had dragged themselves out of bed early on a Sunday morning to see us off. Hitched up easily and said our thankyous and tearful goodbyes.
Left about 9.30am, weather quite cloudy. Had torrential rain going round Bilbao and for the first half of the journey, then the clouds slowly cleared and the sun came out for the rest of the way. Easy journey, all motorway With three separate toll charges – 7.33€/1.48€/1.70€. Filled up with diesel before the border at 1.28€ per litre – good job because it’s 1.54€ in France. Also a national tanker driver strike has just started in Spain, hope it doesn’t spread to France.
Found the site quite easily, a smaller one than usual, and managed to get one of the few larger sunny pitches. Many of the sites over here have lots of trees on them as in the height of summer everyone wants shade, but not this time of year. Spent the usual long time deciding which way round the caravan should go (Anne) because of the sun, and come on lets get on with it (George).
So here we are on the Basque Coast of France, at the foot of the Pyrenees, 2k south of Biarritz, 1k from the beach and a very short walk from the village square in the centre of Bidart. Looking forward to exploring.
We are told there is free Wi-Fi in the bar here. If you are reading this it must have worked!
On Tuesday we are flying to Essex and staying with Anne’s Mum for eight days for her 90th birthday celebrations. Really looking forward to it. Back here on Wednesday 18th June.
Saturday, June 7
Rallying in Green Spain
by
George and Anne
on Sat 07 Jun 2008 20:13 BST
Days 118-129 Tue 27 May – Sat 7 June 08
CLICK HERE TO SEE PHOTOS
Have had a really enjoyable further two weeks here – more of the same activities: quizzes, boules games, coffee mornings, organised walks and group lunches out. Still meeting new people as some are leaving and others are arriving nearly every day.
The weather has been a bit mixed – torrential rain overnight a couple of times and generally cloudy days but it stabilised over the last week and we are now back to hot sun. A couple near us have been here regularly at this time of year and said it’s been the worst weather they’ve had in six years – but we think it’s been the same all over Europe. However we’ve still had days on the beach and barbeques in baking sun.
Had a great day out in Bilbao. Headed straight for the Guggenheim Museum. 12.50€ each entry fee which includes a personal audio guide for most of the exhibits. It is worth paying the entrance fee (7.50€ for aged 65+) just to go in the place, in fact we thought the best exhibit was the building itself. It is generally famous for being a magnificent example of the work of avant-garde architect Frank Gehry. Most of this extraordinary building is covered in titanium and glass – have a look at the photographs and judge for yourself. The various exhibitions were interesting if nothing else, the highlight of which was the Dahli-led Surrealist section - very enjoyable. Our enjoyment of some of the minimalist works was, well, minimal.
We also walked along the Ria de Bilbao to the old town – the usual mixture of market places, narrow streets, beautiful old buildings and churches. The only downside of the day was having a puncture in a back tyre as we were leaving the car park – sound familiar ? We are now old hands at changing tyres and had to buy two new ones the next day at a Spanish Kwik Fit. This is the second puncture in two weeks and we feel very unlucky, however we now have four new tyres so should be ok from now on.
Spent a full day visiting the Parque de la Naturaleza de Cabarceno which is about forty minutes away just inland from Santander. It is an animal/safari park similar to Longleat, but it is vast – the biggest in Europe we believe - covering 750 hectares and containing 112 different species of animals and 10 miles of roadways. The scenic setting was amazing, changing from flat open areas to spectacular craggy hillsides creating a brilliant natural home for the animals. Definitely recommend it to anyone visiting the area.
Also visited the town of Santona – 15 minutes away – lovely seafront area and fishing harbour. Walked past a shop front thinking it was a bar, went in and found huge stainless steel vats of wine with people coming in and out with their own containers and having them filled for 1.20€ per litre. Four of us came back to the Bodega a few days later armed with empty containers, tasted two reds, one white and a rose and came back loaded up – complete with a free earthenware jug each for decanting.
Boiling hot day today (Saturday 7th). Had a lunchtime Rally Barbeque with tables joined together all down one of the roadways here. Bid a sad farewell to Hillary and Peter (our Bodega buddies) and their enormous vehicle (more like a coach with two slide-out sections – see photographs) on their way home to Hampshire – our turn tomorrow.
Thankfully the only disaster over the last fortnight (apart from the punctures) was running out of PG Tipps, but some neighbours came to the rescue - they had bought nearly 2,000 over here with them and gave us a big handful - marvellous !
Off in the morning, leaving Spain, destination Biarritz. We’ve had a great time here – thank you Shirley and Tom, our lovely Rally Stewards, for making our first Caravan Rally so memorable and enjoyable. We'll never forget their impersonations - Shirley's Ann Robinson and Tom's Evil Kineval !
We’ll be sorry to leave but are looking forward to our next stop.
The plan is for the caravan to be in Biarritz for about a month. On Tuesday we are flying to Essex and staying with Anne’s Mum for eight days for her 90th birthday celebrations. Back home to Biarritz on Wednesday 18th June.
CLICK HERE TO SEE PHOTOS
Monday, May 26
First Week at Noja, Santander
by
George and Anne
on Mon 26 May 2008 23:37 BST
Days 110- 117 Mon 19 May – Mon 26 May 08
This site is huge – about 850 large pitches – but is only about a quarter full at the moment. This means lots of facilities and not that many people to use them which is great and the shower blocks are very modern and clean.
The site is right alongside a beautiful sandy beach, Playa de Ris, with a gate directly on to the beach about forty yards from our caravan so we are hoping for some good weather while we’re here. Playa de Ris is four kilometres of fine golden sand set round two curving bays of the Cantabric Sea. The beach, caravan site and town of Noja are surrounded by the Noja Wetlands Reserve which is home to many wild animal and bird species.
The Camping and Caravan Club have been allocated nearly fifty pitches, all in the same area of the site. The Rally actually started on Monday so we were entertained by lots of other caravans and motorhomes arriving and setting up around us.
After enjoying each others’ company and doing our own thing for nearly four months George and I weren’t sure how we would take to being organised in a big group but we are really enjoying the social interaction so far. None of the activities are compulsory but we find we are attending most of them – already been to quiz nights, boules competitions, coffee mornings and organised walks. Our fellow Rallyers are a mixed bag – from all parts of the UK, all walks of life, all very friendly and great fun.
We also had a lunchtime walk into town for a typically Spanish meal – 26 of us in all – three courses including wine for 11€ each. George found himself next to a fellow Rotarian from Queensferry Club in Edinburgh. Grainger and his wife Norma were great company – over the next few days we ended up consuming lots of alcohol together – finishing off their best malt whiskey along the way. Sadly they were only here for a week but we hope our paths will cross again in future travels.
Also on the site is a group of musicians - all men – who are on a tour with their bicycles, mandolins and penny whistles. They did a couple of impromptu sing-along performances in the bar here which were great fun (Anne and Norma practised their maracas playing – see photos) – it seemed the more we drank the better they were !
There is a 9-hole golf course 1km away – three par fours and six par threes. To play round twice cost 7€ per person so we thought we’d give it a go. The course was a bit rough round the edges, short but quite challenging and we really enjoyed it.
The weather this week has been mixed. Have had some heavy rain at night mixed with roasting sun and cloud during the day. One evening we were still on the beach in hot sun at 6.30pm.
As this is being typed we can hear the calling of peacocks. There is a children’s animal park at one end of the site and two days a week at 6.00pm they open the gates and we can all go in and feed the animals with the old bread collected from the camp shop. There are peacocks, peahens, llamas, cows, goats, sheep, chickens, ducks, beautiful tiny black piglets and two sorts of deer - all very tame and taking food from our hands.
This has been quite an accident-prone week for the Rallyers – the local ambulance has been needed twice for bicycle accidents – and also poor Tom, the Rally Steward, went over his handlebars whilst leading an ambulance through the site to the latest casualty. The ambulance crew didn’t know who to stop for first but Tom heroically waved them past himself as he sat bleeding on the tarmac. Thankfully he was not seriously hurt and when the ambulance had left with the injured lady we made him and Shirley a cup of tea to help them calm down - after a medicinal scotch or two they eventually stopped shaking!
This is a lovely site in a great position and we look forward to the next two weeks – more of the same (minus the accidents!) plus some trips out.
Sunday, May 18
Salamanca to Noja, Santander
by
George and Anne
on Sun 18 May 2008 23:34 BST
Day 109 Sun 18 May 08
Got away early, soon after 8.00am, ready for one of our longest legs – 460km.
Quite a cloudy and chilly morning, we were quickly passing through very flat open terrain, definitely cruise control country. Lots of bright yellow gorse and wild poppies.
Filled up with diesel en route – 1.26€ per litre.
Headed up to Burgos – passed the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra Tour Lorry on the ring road! After passing Burgos we had some rain for a couple of hours and the terrain became more hilly. Eventually joined the motorway up to Bilbao, then on west along the coast to Noja, just before Santander, where we are booked on a Camping and Caravanning Club Rally for three weeks.
Found Playa Joyel caravan site with no problems and met the Rally Stewards Shirley and Tom who are lovely and made us feel very welcome.
Set up quite quickly and got the kettle on!
Saturday, May 17
Salamanca
by
George and Anne
on Sat 17 May 2008 17:09 BST
Days 105-108 Wed 14 – Sat 17 May 08
Well, what can we say – Salamanca is a super place. It is a very old city, not very big, situated on the banks of the Tormes River, and is famous for its beautiful buildings and thriving university. The older, cultural centre is very compact and the outer, newer area has wide, elegant, tree-lined roads – it reminded us of a mini Barcelona. There are several bridges across the river – one dates back to Roman times with nine of the original arches still remaining.
In the city centre is the beautiful main square, Plaza Mayor built in the lovely honey coloured Villa Mayor stone. The city is dominated by two beautiful cathedrals - one old, one “new” – the newer one is built partially over/on top of the older one making things very confusing for the visitor ! The Medieval Cathedral towers, 100 metres tall, are two of Salamanca’s most important emblems with a history dating back over 900 years.
We had a great day of non-stop walking, coffee in various squares and listening to the brass band in Plaza Mayor, which had a book festival set up in it which rather spoilt the view of the buildings.
There is a bus from right outside the caravan site entrance into the centre – 20 mins €1.05. Have found free wi-fi at our local library – brilliant.
Our next visit to the centre turned out to be very eventful – decided to drive in as it’s only 3k. No problem, straight into the multi storey car park – but on the way out hit the kerb by the pay machine and burst a front tyre. Changed the wheel with the help of a lovely car park attendant and had to go to the Spanish equivalent of Kwik Fit the next day to sort it out. They couldn’t match the other front one so we ended up forking out for two new tyres, better safe than sorry – see photos!
Weather now much better so have decided to stay here until moving to Noja, near Bilbao where the rally is, on Sunday. This is a small, very nice site and we’ll be sorry to leave. Would definitely recommend Salamanca for a short city break.
Tuesday, May 13
Porto to Salamanca
by
George and Anne
on Tue 13 May 2008 23:26 BST
Day 104 Tue 13 May
Set off at about 9.30am for Salamanca (middle of Spain NW of Madrid). This is a change from the original plan. We were going to go to La Coruna next, right up in the top left hand corner of Spain, but having looked at the map we realised that the road from there heading east was not too good. We have got to be in the Bilbao area by Monday 19th May as we are booked into a Camping and Caravanning Club International Rally so have now decided to cut the corner off and head northeast via Salamanca.
Very scenic route with some quite big climbs – passed by/over the Serra Gralheira on one side and the Serra de Caramulo on the other. Small toll motorway south out of Porto - €7.05 then free motorway all the way to the border which we reached after just over three hours. Quite strange, the Portuguese motorway ended at a small roundabout in the small border village of Vilar Formosa (the passport booths had obviously not been used for years) then the road leading away from the roundabout (in Spain) was a single lane road for about ten miles! It then turned into dual carriageway lined with bright yellow gorse bushes for the rest of the journey to Salamanca. Approx 330km total.
Lots of lorries about today – we don’t usually get any when we travel on Sundays.
Found the caravan site easily (despite TomTom directing us wrongly again at the end). It is tiny, only about fifty pitches and we were led to one which we could drive straight into – brilliant.
Weather not great at the moment but we are looking forward to visiting the centre of Salamanca as we know nothing about this area at all.
Monday, May 12
Picturesque Porto
by
George and Anne
on Mon 12 May 2008 16:20 BST
Days 97-103 Tue 6 May - Mon 12 May 08
First day - caught the bus into Porto centre – situated on the north bank of the Douro River. It’s only about 4k away but the bus (as always) went all round the houses and back streets so the journey took about 45mins. We are time rich so this doesn’t matter at all and it’s really interesting to see the small streets and gatherings of locals in their favourite cafes etc as we go past.
Eventually came out to the river and could see picturesque Porto across on the other side. The bus then crossed the river and we got off in one of the main squares. The weather was a bit cloudy but we had a great day walking round the town – we always head straight for the tourist information centre to pick up maps and info, then have a coffee and plan what we want to do. Porto is a beautiful old town – full of grand old buildings and monuments – with waterside cafes and restaurants - and is linked to Vila Nova de Gaia by six bridges. The Ponte Luis I is the famous iron bridge designed by Gustaph Eiffel. See photos (probably too many !)
We have been to Sherry Country – we are now in Port Country. Porto is the ancient town, situated at the mouth of the Douro River, which gave its name to Portugal and Port Wine. Vila Nova de Gaia on the south bank is the home of the cellars of the famous Port exporters – Sandemans, Grahams, Crofts, Offleys etc.
We went to Sandemans Cellars (called caves here) and had a tour and tasting (see photos) – similar to our sherry visit. The guides were all clothed in the Sandeman Don’s black cloak (as worn traditionally by Portuguese students), and the black hat (representing Spanish tradition). – see photos.
Have spent days at the caravan in the sun. No wi-fi here so have made trips to a local internet café to catch up.
There are various organised boat trips up the Douro River so we thought we would treat ourselves to a full day version. (This was actually recommended to us by the lady who we bought our meat from in Quarteira in the Algarve ! – we got chatting to her about our trip, told her we were going to Porto after Lisbon and she said we should do it !) -
Had a fabulous day – boarded the Vale do Douro at 10.00am, set sail and were served breakfast at our reserved table inside - we were seated with a lovely young American couple from Boston.
The weather was quite cloudy to begin with but very comfortable sitting up on deck with a fleece jacket on. The scenery was fabulous and we had a wonderfully relaxing journey as the river headed inland towards some of the oldest wine producing vineyards in Europe – all set on sloping terraces - where the grapes for the Port wine are grown.
We passed through two locks. The first after 20k (Barragem de Crestuma-Lever) had a water level difference of 14m and we were served an aperitif of white port out on deck as the water level rose. We were then served a fabulous three course lunch complete with wine and coffee which we enjoyed with our new American friends, Katy and Jay.
The sun began to break through and we sailed on - at about 3.00pm, after about 70k, we passed through the second lock (Barragem de Carrapatelo) – water level difference of 35m, it was absolutely massive - the biggest on this river.
Eventually we reached our destination – Regua – transferred to a coach for the 5 min journey to the Castelinho Wine Caves for a quick trip round and more tasting !!
Then to the station for the two hour train ride back to Porto.
What a great day out – all for €65 each.
Had a look at a couple of nearby golf courses – one was a 9-hole links course (€35 for 9, €50 for 18) the other was a quirky 6-hole course (€20 for 6, €30 for 12, €40 for 18). We were planning to play tomorrow but have decided to move on to Salamanca in the morning.
We really like Porto. There is much more here to see and will definitely come here again.
SEE PHOTOS - CLICK HERE
Tuesday, May 6
Lisbon to Porto
by
George and Anne
on Tue 06 May 2008 23:14 BST
Day 98 Tue 6 May 08
Left at about 10.00am and set off in cloudy weather – very busy roads, eventually got out of the Lisbon area at about 10.30am !
Lovely journey to Porto – 320 km - passing the 4,000 mile mark on the way.
Pretty green rolling countryside, passing by small farms and villages. Took under four hours actual driving – we stopped a couple of times for coffee and cakes. Toll motorway nearly the whole way - €43.25.
Arrived at the caravan site with no great difficulty, although the directions given were not brilliant. Parts of the site are very crowded, lots of motor homes, but we have found ourselves another good spot in a partly wooded bit, plenty of room. Another Orbitur site, (shower block not brilliant, but usable) – with our ACSI Card is €10 per night, and we get 7 for 6 nights, so only €60 for the week – bargain.
Walked down to the beach and had a beer in the beach bar in the sun. Huge sandy beaches along this part of the coast – the site is in Vila Nova de Gaia, right by Madelena Beach, which is south of the Douro River. Looking forward to exploring the town of Porto.
Monday, May 5
Lisbon
by
George and Anne
on Mon 05 May 2008 20:11 BST
Days 89-96 Mon 28 Apr - Mon 5 May 08
This municipal site is somewhat different to others we have stayed on – there are very few caravans here, quite a few motor homes and lots of tents. Our pitch is away from everybody. We have seen no Brits here at all (which is usually a benefit). There are eight wash blocks on the site, all spread out in the woods – between us we tried most of them but found them all to be very basic and probably some of the worst we’ve had. The great benefit of the site is that it is so close to the city centre.
Finding an internet café was a priority at first as there is no wi fi on this site so set off on our first morning to central Lisbon on the bus – 25 mins, €1.35. Eventually found free wi fi facility on the top floor of a shopping centre so managed to get up to date. Too far to trek with the laptop again so will have to make do with the computers in reception at €0.30 for 15 minutes. Blog will have to wait.
G‘s tooth still very bad so had to find another English dentist – no such thing in Lisbon apparently so went to one quite nearby who spoke no english at all. One of the reception staff at the caravan site was spectacularly helpful with translations – the dentist even telephoned the site three times while we were with him to speak to the staff here to make sure G understood what was going on! Anyway, the tooth came out, no more problems.
Sorted out the awning for Pam and Lester who arrive on Thursday for a few days. Blew up the air beds, hung a curtain across the middle to give them some privacy, stocked up on alcohol, got out the red carpet etc. We thought we’d make them earn their keep by writing a guest blog entry …read on…………..
Guest Addendum by Pam and Lester Biffin
We have been invited to contribute to the blog by our generous hosts. Whether this is a genuine attempt to inject an alternative style or merely because they can’t be bothered to do this bit, we will have to let you decide.
Had a trouble free flight – only marred by spending well over an hour waiting for our bag, so that we could get out of the airport. A and G were waiting to greet us and we made straight for the site – an oasis of green within the city, just 4 miles from the centre – and had a beer (or two!), a barbie and a planning meeting.
Friday was a whirl of bus rides and walking interspersed with seeing the sights of Lisbon. It soon became apparent that it is a very hilly place and the vast majority are heading up. Pavement cafes, great architecture and sunshine – great combination for a grand day out – the bonus was finding a replacement glass for the coffee pot, which was mysteriously broken at some point during the previous evening. After a fine meal back at camp, we re- inflated the punctured airbed again (Cath – I will explain when I see you) and so to bed.
The other must place to see close to Lisbon is the riverfront at Belem, which is where Portugal’s naval history is clear for all to see. Lots of walking between monuments, museums and galleries plenty of sun and we had our first ice cream of the trip. In the evening we had a meal out and went to Hot Clube de Portugal, Lisbon’s premier jazz venue. Got a fast taxi back at 2am and crashed. (into bed)
Not too much enthusiasm to get going this morning – after a light breakfast we headed off to Sintra and Estoril – both worth an hour or so to have a wander about and watch the police cart off an errant biker from the prom.
Our last evening has come around all too quickly, but a superb barbie and a couple of drinks made it memorable. We will be seeking another opportunity to visit again, if we are lucky enough to be invited. (please).
Thank you for one of our favourite city visits ever. End of. Pam & Lester xxx.
Thanks for that both - we had a great time too. As you well know you are more than welcome any time. Simply as.
Loads of new photographs to view – CLICK HERE.
Off up north to Porto tomorrow (Tuesday).
Sunday, April 27
Algarve To Lisbon
by
George and Anne
on Sun 27 Apr 2008 23:46 BST
Day 88 Sun 27 Apr 08
SEE NEW PHOTOS - CLICK HERE
Set off about 10.30am amidst much hugging and waving from our neighbours, a lovely send-off. Drove away very sad to leave but it’s nice to think we’ll definitely come back again.
Headed off to Lisbon – motorway all the way and all passing through inland countryside – should take three and a half hours tops. The further north we got the greener it all became, very similar to English views. Saw a lot more cars than we usually do when travelling on Sundays, maybe because it’s the last day of the bank holiday weekend, but only saw one other caravan the whole way. Toll motorways – had to pay €45 (we were a class 3 vehicle, so probably had to pay extra for the caravan).
Over the bridge into Lisbon looking for camping signs (the book said “well signposted from all major routes” – absolute rubbish). The site was very difficult to find – we knew it was in a big park so we followed signs for that. We saw one sign for camping, then no more ! Ended up down in amongst blocks of very tatty flats with loads of locals out on the streets – very helpful locals – it seemed that every time we were dithering about where to go, one of them would point in the direction and wave us on with a thumbs up ! This happened at least three times and we eventually arrived at the site. The locals must be very used to pathetically lost caravanners in their backstreets.
Anyway, have found another brilliant pitch – up in the woods away from the main hub of caravans with loads of room and our own water tap and picnic bench. Put the awning up straight away, even though we are only here for a week, as we are looking forward to having guests to stay on Thursday for a few days.
George has got bad tooth ache at the moment so we are hoping it will get better before we have to seek out another dentist !
This site is in a lovely setting – in a large natural wooded park – but only a few kilometres from the centre of Lisbon so we will have to get used to big city driving.
Saturday, April 26
Last Week In The Algarve
by
George and Anne
on Sat 26 Apr 2008 23:44 BST
Days 82-87 Mon 21 Apr–Sat 26 Apr 08
SEE NEW PHOTOS - CLICK HERE
Played golf on Monday atPine Cliffs – on the Sheraton Algarve Hotel complex. Lovely course along the cliff-tops, only nine holes, so we went round twice for €47 each pre-booked at a discount golf shop in Almancil. While we were there we saw an advert for the Vacation Club/Timeshare company based there – go and listen to the blurb for 90 minutes and get a free round of golf. As we own three weeks at the Marriot Golf Resort in Majorca we were quite interested in how it all works out here so we had our “chat” with one of the reps. It turned out to be a practically identical set-up to ours but very expensive - one mid season week cost €28,000 ! Anyway, needless to say George wouldn’t let Anne sign anything but we did get a voucher for a free nine holes.
Weather is now very hot and sunny and should be for a while apparently. Spent an afternoon (plus picnic) on our local beach – practically had the place to ourselves.
Had another visit to Vale do Lobo. Anne went into the Beauty Spa for an eye lash tint (brilliant when you’re away – who wants to wear mascara all the time ?) and George took some photos of the “Arty Things” which have appeared all over the place. Went back via our favourite beach bar and sat overlooking the beach with another bottle of wine.
Played our free nine holes at Pine Cliffs then spent a few hours round one of the swimming pools there – brill.
Had a lovely day on Thursday visiting our friends Annette and Gordon who have a house in a small village near Tavira (back towards the Spanish border). They are both also members of Mendip Spring Golf club so we caught up on all the news/gossip. Got there mid morning, went into Tavira for a walk round the town and coffee, then came back to their house and had a wonderful boozy lunch up on the roof terrace in the blazing sun. Lunch lasted for quite a while ! Ended up with tea and cakes – what a lovely day – thank you both. See photos…………
Moving on to Lisbon on Sunday so we took the awning down on Friday, which was a bank holiday out here. We prefer to do this as it gives us a totally free final day and gives us a bit of leeway if it rains on the last day. It’s no fun taking down and packing away a sodden awning (apparently) – it’s heavy enough when it’s dry ! Sat outside in the sun afterward feeling pleased with ourselves.
We have really enjoyed our stay on this site and will definitely come back here in the future. We have had really lovely neighbours for the whole time – John and Marjorie with dog Dexter on one side and a Dutch couple, Jose and Andre and their
three-legged dog on the other. We invited them round for drinks at 6.00pm on our last night and had a lovely couple of hours sitting in the (still hot) sun chatting – we did talk about things other than caravans, honest ! Then went on to Vilamoura on our own for a great steak in Rui’s Carvery for our last meal here.
Off to Lisbon tomorrow – filled up with diesel at €1.29 per litre, a lot more than in Spain.
Tuesday, April 22
Algarve Continued
by
George and Anne
on Tue 22 Apr 2008 12:28 BST
Days 75-81 Mon 14 Apr–Sun 20 Apr 08
Lovely days this week – long walk right along Quarteira promenade and then on to Vilamoura harbour – lots of sitting in the sun outside the caravan.
Went to the local market here which is huge – bought a beautiful little jacket for our grandson-to-be.
Have made a few visits to the Equestrian Show Jumping Arena in Vilamoura, we had heard about it from our neighbours in the next caravan to us – their son owns some horses who are competing in some of the classes being staged and they were going to watch. The climax was the Grand Prix on the Sunday with some top horses and riders competing. As it was only up the road from here we popped in a few times and really enjoyed it.
Had a trip to Albufeira which was the first place we ever stayed in the Algarve when the children were little – saw the balcony of the apartment we had, in the town centre right near the beach.
Lots of changes since those days – the fisherman’s beach where all the fishing boats were drawn up on the sand is in the middle of a re-vamp. The street leading down to it where we used to park our hired mini all those years ago is now mainly pedestrianised, the boats have all gone from the beach, the car park has been made into a large tiled area and there are lots of new modern cafes and restaurants. Ruina’s fish restaurant just by the beach is still there though.
They seem to be knocking down buildings on whole sides of streets and starting again. Oh yes – the loads of steps that led down from the cliff top on the far side of the beach have now gone – replaced by two (very long) escalators - that’s progress for you ! It might be interesting to visit again when they have finished it all.
Anyway, it was great fun going back – ably finished off with a few hours on the beach in the afternoon, where George went in for a swim (he insists on you all knowing that !)
Had a bit of a do with the camera – went to take a photograph and it wouldn’t work – it made all the right noises and all the right lights went on but the lens bit refused to budge. Found a camera shop and they kindly tried a new battery in it but to no avail – it is a late camera – only had it for three years but it has taken approximately 3,500 photographs. Anyway, went back to the shopping mall in Guia and bought another one for €110 – not in the plan but needs must.
Sunday, April 13
Enjoying the Algarve
by
George and Anne
on Sun 13 Apr 2008 23:15 BST
Days 68–74 Mon 7 Apr–Sun 13 Apr 08
You can see our latest photographs – CLICK HERE
On the way back from the beach bar yesterday George had a lovely telephone call from Grace – Lady President of the Rotary Club of Weston-super-Mare thanking us for our “guest appearance” the night before - let us explain ……………
Saturday evening was Grace’s big night – the annual President’s Dinner and Dance, being held this year at the newly re-jigged Cadbury Hotel and Country Club. We were really sorry not to be able to go as it was George who invited Grace into the Rotary Club – she was the first Lady Member and has been a massive asset. She and husband David had no idea that other members had arranged a telephone link over the PA system so we could talk to her. We called during the evening pretending to try and book our caravan in for the night whilst photographs of us on our trip were shown on a big screen – you can imagine the confusion – anyway, we were thrilled to be able to give them both our good wishes from afar.
Weather not too good for the first few days – on Tuesday it absolutely hammered down all day – so we postponed puting the awning up until it got better. We spent the time doing a bit of shopping and driving round to see what had changed since we were last here in 2002. A huge mall has appeared in Guia (just inland from Albufeira) and new roads are confusing us !
Bought some Swordfish and Dorada down in the indoor fish market – the man was so nice he even told George how to make a great sauce to go with it ! Nearly next door is the indoor veg market so we stocked up – including some tiny chillies that the lady assured us were lethal. Will let you know……..
Had more heavy rain overnight one night and it’s been very windy so we didn’t put the awning up until Saturday (bearing in mind the last time we put it up it blew away) – the spare part Anne had brought back from her UK visit worked well and we were able to unpack the car and give it good brush out.
Went for a long walk along the beach from here (the very eastern edge of Quarteira) nearly to Quinta do Lago. Still very windy but sunny – found our old favourite beach bar, Mad Max’s, now called Izzy’s – and enjoyed a bottle of wine right on the edge of the beach overlooking the sea. – see photo.
Weather got better every day – boiling hot sun on Sunday so had a great day here on the site, then had another trip to the Sports Bar in Vilamoura Marina in the evening to see the end of The Masters Golf from Augusta over a few glasses of red wine.
Weather is forecast to be settled from now on so we are looking forward to some sun and beach days.
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