We have really enjoyed our last week in San Remo – or is it Sanremo ? We’ve been here two weeks now and we are still not sure. On maps and signposts it seems to be either.

However, we’ve found out why this area is called the Riviera of Flowers – it is the main centre for flower production in this region. The surrounding hillsides high up behind the town are covered in green houses and plastic tents and produce huge amounts of various varieties of flowers for sale all round the world. We are out of season now, but when they are in full bloom it must be a marvellous sight.

We’ve also found out how to cross the busy roads in the town centre. Go to the zebra crossing as normal but don’t rely on the traffic stopping or you’ll be there all day, wait for the slightest break in the traffic then step firmly out with eyes riveted on the other side and don’t stop for anything, particularly ignore all squeals of tyres and don’t be tempted to look at the traffic – it’s the only way you can get across. You do, however, have to look out for the motor scooters – there are hundreds of them everywhere zooming at you from all directions and most scooter riders seem totally crackers and are even worse than the car drivers.

Went east along the coast in the car, being zapped on all sides by scooters, and found delightful towns and villages. Imperia was the largest, very industrial in the centre of the town and seafront with some lovely, beachy parts either side and Diano Marina was a very pretty beach town further on along the coast. Our favourite was Cervo, a small village literally hanging on to the edge of the hillside overlooking the sea. Spectacular position with great views from the Clavesana Castle walls at the top, reached by very narrow lanes and ancient steps. The contrast of light and shade in these areas gives the town its other name – Painter’s Heaven. Also at the top of the village and dominating the skyline is the beautiful Church of the Corallini, which is the best Baroque monument of Western Liguria apparently. In summer evenings the Church Square is transformed into the stage of the International Chamber Music Festival, hosting world famous musicians.

This is a lovely part of the Italian Riviera and we preferred the east side of San Remo rather than the west.

Had another hot day by the pool, and another one down on the beach here watching the waves washing over the huge rocks that line the sea edge – it’s a bit like looking into a real log fire in winter, you can do it for hours.

We went back into town one evening for a meal at the restaurant we chose last week – it was closed! Never mind - we found another one tucked away down a little narrow street, really lovely food, no English spoken, brill.

Drove back into France to Monte Carlo about thirty minutes away. First came here together when we were 19 and 24 ! We’ve been back a few times since but never tire of sitting outside the Café de Paris, opposite the Hotel de Paris, by the Casino and watching the world go by.

Drove straight up to the Palace in Monaco, parked the car and went into the Palace. Never been in before and it was well worth the 9€ each which also gives you entry to the Palace Museum and Archives. Beautiful rooms in the Palace with evidence of the love held for Princess Grace at every turn. Saw the Changing of the Guard as we came out and then walked down thought the narrow streets to the Harbour area of Monte Carlo.

There have been some changes since we were last here – there are new harbour walls and the two landmark little lighthouses have gone completely. Took a ferry taxi from the harbour round to the back of the Casino which we’ve not done before, bargain at 1€ each.

Anne wanted to have a glass of Café de Paris sparkling wine sitting outside the Café de Paris, just for the crack, but balked at paying 11€ for one glass when you can buy a bottle in the supermarkets for 4€. Never mind, a beer and a glass of red was enjoyed just as much. Sat watching the Ferraris and Maseratis cruise by full of the beautiful idle rich, then – back off in the Alhambra to the caravan for us, the just idle!

George has become famous amongst the staff on the caravan site. The electric supply here is only 3amps – that’s not much, to the uninitiated.  As we are here for two weeks (and not many people seem to be here for more than a few days) it means that we keep forgetting and accidentally tripping the fuse in the locked box outside the caravan by switching too much on at once, so we (George!) has to go to reception to get someone to come out, unlock the box, trip the switch back and re-lock the box. They won’t let us have a key. Whenever we go into reception, even if it’s for a bus ticket or map, they say “electric?” If we see one particular man, his hand is in his pocket reaching for his key before we’ve even said anything. Fame at last.

Went to the far side of San Remo to visit Villa Nobel. It was bought by Alfred Nobel in 1891 – a large very pretty villa in its own grounds by the sea. He built a laboratory in the grounds and conducted experiments until he died there in 1896 aged 63. The researcher and discoverer was mainly famous for developing safer explosives but was also a pioneer in many diverse fields of study.

His work, and businesses, with explosives, particularly nitro-glycerine, made possible some of the greatest accomplishments of that century - train tunnels, artificial canals, installation of harbours, and most famously enabled the Saint Gothard tunnel to be built on time and on budget – the first large tunnel where dynamite had been used, it was the first major link between north and south in the Alps. It is 15k long and took over eight years to build. More than 2000 miners took part in the construction, 200 of them were killed due to poor working conditions.

The Villa is now a museum dedicated to his life and works and also contains his will – he left his considerable fortune in a fund, the interest of which was to be distributed annually in the form of prizes to those who, during the preceding year, had conferred the greatest benefit on mankind in five categories – Physics, Chemistry, Physiology or Medicine, Literature, and Peace - The Nobel prizes - which are awarded on 10^th December each year, the anniversary of his death.

The Villa also contains some of his own furniture arranged in the study, a sitting room and bedroom, and now hosts various events and exhibitions throughout the year. Entry was free.

A real highlight at the caravan site was the impromptu rehearsal/performance one evening of a German Youth Brass Band just outside the bar. They were all staying in the chalets here and were due to perform in one of the main squares in San Remo the next day. We sat out on the leafy terrace listening to great music for about an hour as the sun went down. When they began a lovely rendition of “Oh Happy Day” Anne’s contact lenses got a thorough washing – how lucky we are to be sitting here, how lucky we are to be on this trip - how lucky we are.

We are really glad we stayed here for two weeks - in one of our books San Remo was described as a City of Layers and that is exactly right. In one week we would not have peeled away as many of them as we have after two weeks and we would definitely come here again. It is a lovely city with beautiful buildings, practically no English people and none of the brash, in your face, tourism of some places we’ve been to.

Had a meal in the restaurant here tonight, our last evening.

Off to Tuscany tomorrow for three weeks and looking forward to receiving guests.

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