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Tuesday, November 25
The End of the Road
by
George and Anne
on Tue 25 Nov 2008 23:07 GMT
Day 300 Tuesday 25th November 2008
Left the site at 8.00am, with very mixed feelings, for the 15 minute drive to the tunnel, and arrived back in the UK at 10.00am local time. Cost £98, booked on the internet two weeks ago, good price we thought for car and caravan, much better than the rip off we paid starting out back in January when we didn’t pre-book.
It was a lovely sunny morning and we went straight to Long Acres caravan site in Lingfield, near Godstone, just south of Nina, James and Hector’s house. Stayed there for two nights and had the pleasure of a visit from Little Hector. Had a trip to Anne’s Mums house to unload stuff from the caravan. This is a much better site than Calais - £28 for the two nights – more than we have been paying but we had a wonderful 16amps of electricity, oh joy. The facilities were dated but clean. Showers were 50p in the slot, unusually, but they were lovely and hot.
Tomorrow we are off to Highbridge Caravan Centre for the caravan’s first service. The car will also be serviced in Congresbury whilst we enjoy the Biffin’s great hospitality once again. Then it is back to Essex, moving in with Anne’s Mum, looking forward to a lovely family Christmas.
We can’t believe it was over a year ago that we collected the caravan amidst great excitement and celebration. What a wonderful year we’ve had……. ………
So…………. After 300 days, 5 countries, 12 thousand miles driving including over 5 thousand miles towing, 25 caravan sites, 4 new tyres, 2,700 photographs, 1,500 tea bags and one grandchild later ……………………... we have come to the end of this particular adventure.
Some questions answered:
Are we glad we did it ? – Without doubt
Did we buy the right caravan ?
Yes – definitely, the Lunar Lexon has been a real home to us
Did we have the right towing vehicle ?
Yes - the Seat Alhambra has been brilliant, economical with loads of room.
Did we miss anything from home ?
Yes - family, friends, our cat Harry Panther, Rotary lunches and banter (George), baths (Anne).
What didn’t we miss ?
Work, stress, clock-watching, newspapers spreading credit crunch doom and gloom, cold weather, television, golf (surprisingly), heavy motorway traffic and traffic jams.
We were unlucky with ….
- leaving the UK in the worst weather imaginable for the start of our adventure.
- the pound falling against the euro.
- the price of diesel soaring right across Europe for a while.
- having a freak 100 mile an hour gust of wind blow the awning off the ground.
- getting stuck down a back alley in Cadiz.
We were lucky with ….
- having TomTom
- having mobile telephones, laptop computer (and therefore with wi-fi, emails etc.)
- people always materialising, seemingly from nowhere, to help push the caravan onto a pitch if required.
- the timing of Hector’s birth - in the high season, and therefore saving us the high cost of caravan pitch fees abroad!
- having family and friends come out to stay with us.
- the really lovely people we met on our travels.
Major disasters ? None, thankfully
Are we still speaking to each other ? Absolutely
Would we do it again ? Yes - like a shot
---------------------------------------- o ---- o--------------------------------------
Many thanks for your interest, good wishes and messages of support over the year – we wish you all the very best for 2009 -
‘till the next time……………Anne and George x x x x
------------------------------------------ o ---- o --------------------------------------
CLICK HERE TO SEE PHOTOS - ALL 2,700 OF THEM!
Monday, November 24
The Long Way Up - The Last Bit
by
George and Anne
on Mon 24 Nov 2008 23:59 GMT
Days 297-299 Saturday 22nd – Monday 24th November 2008
Left Lyon on a cloudy morning and arrived at Camping Hautoreille in Bannes, just outside Langres, in under three hours. Toll 28.80€. We are staying here for one night before going on to Calais. We had seen snow on the roadsides and in the fields on the way up, but no snow in Bannes……. until thirty minutes after we arrived – George walked up to the loo block and came back all white – it was snowing! We had hoped to walk round the hilltop town of Langres in the afternoon but it was really cold so decided to have a drive through instead. It seems to be a lovely place with a central square and medieval buildings.
Topped up with diesel - 1.09€. It was snowing hard by now so we gave up and went back to the caravan to warm up.
Not many people on this ACSI site, and because of the weather we didn’t see much of it. Couldn’t get the ACSI discount at this time of year so we paid a high 18.90€ for the night – but at least the electricity supply was good at 10 amps. Electric fire on full then!
The countryside was completely white by now and we were wondering (worrying) about getting snowed in. It snowed on and off for most of the evening and the site looked a picture – see photos.
Up early for a quick getaway, not snowing now, but very cold - minus 1degree - and over an inch of snow blanketing everything. For some reason the little site roadways were clear (residual heat in the tarmac ?) but we still had to clear away some snow and scrape the windscreen (well, George did!) and eventually left at about 8.30am. Great relief as we got to the motorway after 20 minutes with no problems for the longer journey to Calais, 480k, should be there by 3.00pm.
Deserted motorway – our usual Sunday traffic. Weather not too bad for the first hour, then the sky cleared and we had bright sun for about two hours and the temperature rose to 4 degrees but when we got north of Dijon it all went pear-shaped. We could see the clouds in the distance and it slowly got darker and colder, eventually down to 0 degrees and then we hit the snow storm. It snowed on and off for the next two hours and visibility was down to a scary 50m at times and as we passed each service area we debated whether to stop or not, but kept plodding along. We left the UK at the end of January in horrendous weather and it seems we are destined to end our adventure in the same way. When we were about 50k from Calais the temperature went up a bit and it eventually turned into rain. Tolls – 55€ total.
Very relieved to get to Camping Bouscarel, just east of Calais, with no problems. Still very cold here but no snow. The site has spacious pitches marked by low hedges, but no outside lights at all, not even outside the wash block - not very helpful when it’s dark at 4.30pm! If we hadn’t had a good torch with us we would have been in real trouble. Also we only had 4amps of electricity so we couldn’t have the fire on the highest setting. Thought we’d switch to gas for heat, but hadn’t used it since last February and we couldn’t get the fire to light – typical!
We paid 37.02€ for the two nights, very expensive for what we got, but the site is very convenient for an early ferry or Tunnel Train. We are here for two nights before travelling through the tunnel on Tuesday.
The next day we went to Cite Europe to do some Christmas shopping and stock up on booze before our trip back through the tunnel.
Friday, November 21
Lyon
by
George and Anne
on Fri 21 Nov 2008 14:51 GMT
Days 294-296 Wednesday 19th – Friday 21st November 2008
Stayed in San Remo for one night, leaving the caravan hitched up to the car and not connected to the water, ready for a quick get-away for our longer than usual 533km journey. Left at 8.00am on a beautiful sunny morning, not a cloud in the sky.
Back up to the motorway, heading west into France, through another 25 tunnels. Talking about the tunnels…… each tunnel has only one-way traffic in it, with a separate tunnel for the other carriageway, so in all there are (138+25) x2 (approximately) – 326 total …………. Oh to have been in the tunnel-boring business at the right time!
The motorway traffic was heavy - not like our usual Sundays, and we took it in turns to drive. Tolls were also heavy – total of 68.60€ – a bit annoying considering the loads of road works we went through when we got to France. Weather changed to cloudy now.
Had three stops, probably an hour total, went on round the Lyon by-pass and arrived at Camping Indigo Lyon, just north of the City at 3.30pm. It is in the Porte de Lyon (doorway to Lyon) which seems to be a new area designed specifically for people to stay in whilst visiting the city – there are some big hotels, the Caravan site, small cafes and some restaurants. There is also a big shopping centre 500m away on the other side of the motorway.
Went into reception and were immediately offered a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau – it was a day early but they’d managed to get a preview delivery. We like this site already! Picked a good spot and put the kettle on.
Next day it was still cloudy, and cooler, when we visited the city centre – Lyon is the third largest city in France after Paris and Marseilles. Started on the bus (on time) then metro (on time). The metro is brilliant – very clean, comfortable and quick. Also there is no driver as it is fully automatic. We sat right at the front like a couple of kids, staring into the tunnel – just like the Runaway Mine Train at Disney! Great fun.
Then up on a funicular railway to the beautiful landmark Basilica on the hill which can be seen from miles around. 1€ 60 each which covered the bus, the metro and the funicular. Walked back down the hill and entered the Vieux Lyon (old town) – a maze of small streets, famous for its Traboules et Passage - little narrow passageways through courtyards linking them. Walked between the Rivers Saone and The Rhone which both pass through the city. It happened to be the Beaujolais Nouveau Day which was being promoted everywhere. When we arrived back at the Caravan Site we were invited for a tasting of B N produced by a lovely lady on her farm about 7k away. Lovely wine so we had to buy a few bottles.
Lyon is a lovely City which we have only driven past on the motorway before. It is ideal city break material and we’d love to come back and explore some more.
Filled up with diesel 1.07€ per litre, much cheaper now. The plan is to move on to Langres tomorrow for one night and then on to Calais for two nights before travelling through the Channel Tunnel on Tuesday 25th November.
Very mixed feelings – sad that our trip is ending but looking forward to seeing friends and family, especially looking forward to Baby Hector’s first Christmas. Our house in Bristol is still rented until the end of January so we will be staying with Anne’s Mum.
We will update the blog when we get back to the UK
A Bientot.
NEW PHOTOS
Tuesday, November 18
Rome to La Spezia to San Remo
by
George and Anne
on Tue 18 Nov 2008 16:54 GMT
Day 291-293 Sunday 16th November – Tuesday 18th November 2008
Left early for the journey to La Spezia on a beautiful sunny morning, not a cloud in the sky. Quite a distance 400k - about five hours towing time. Tolls 31€, diesel now down to 1.19€ per litre. Arrived early afternoon at Deiva Marina, just north of La Spezia, a small site 3k from the beach. Set up quickly and had our cup of tea sitting out in the sun. No internet so we will be out of the loop for a couple of days.
Next day was another beautiful morning so we decided to do the Five Village Walk in the Cinque Terre National Park. There are five coastal villages hanging onto cliffs overlooking the sea – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Moterosso. No cars are allowed in but there is a coastal walk along the cliffs linking all the villages. Each town has a railway station so you can walk as far as you like then chicken out and get the train if you’ve had enough. The total distance is only nine kilometres but that turned out to be quite deceptive……..
We decided to go for it and took the 8.30am train from our local station here to the furthest village – Riomaggiore (just north of La Spezia, 35 min ride) – and set off along the coastal route to the next one. It was a lovely easy walk, 1k, along a modern path half way up the cliffs overlooking the sea – took about twenty minutes and the views were gorgeous. The sea was like a millpond.
Had a quick look round the village of Manarola and then set off to the next one – Corniglia. A bit harder this time – a mountain trail with some ups and downs, 1k, took us about an hour including the 375 steps at the end to get up to the village square where we had a coffee stop.
Off we went again and then it got serious! 4k to Vernazza, along very rough, sometimes very steep, mountain trails and stone steps up and down through olive groves. We went high above the sea and it was very hard work in the sun but worth it for the spectacular views. We could see Vernazza in the distance way below us as we approached and the desire for a lunch-stop got stronger with every step. Took us two hours. Arrived down in the harbour square and found a lovely Trattoria and sat down thankfully to some great pasta – and lots of water! Talked to some people during our meal who told us that we were brave to do it all in one day and that the best was yet to come!
Suitably re-fuelled, we set off on the last leg to Moterosso. More of the same – hot sun, even steeper climbs, even rougher tracks sometimes only a foot wide but the views were even more spectacular. We could see Moterosso in the distance but it didn’t seem to be getting any nearer….. 3k took us two and a half hours so you get the idea ……… (this included a fifteen minute stop with an entrepreneurial farmer selling fresh lemon squash (made while we watched) from a little table half way along one of the steepest bits. Good man).
Arrived in Moterosso worn out but pleased with our achievement and got straight onto the 4.30pm train for the (shorter) ride back to Deiva Marina and arrived back in time to see the sun set over the sea. Marvellous. Entrance to the National Park was 8.50€ each which included the trains. We had a lovely day, the weather was brilliant and the walking was great, but doing it all in one go meant we didn’t have much time to explore the villages – next time perhaps. Our photographs don’t do the scenery justice but you’ll get an idea. Recommend to anyone coming to the area.
Left early on Tuesday 18th for the short, 200k, journey to Sam Remo. Rain for most of the way (we were so lucky yesterday!) as we made our way back along the motorway of tunnels. We remembered there were loads of them from our journey going the other way and this time we were sad enough to count them – would you believe 138 tunnels varying from 75 to 1910 metres in length (probably a few more that we may have missed whilst chatting). Must have cost a fortune to build them all – paid a bit towards it in tolls though - 28€ this time.
Staying on the same Camping Cheque site in San Remo as before – the first time we’ve re-visited anywhere – just overnight, then an early start in the morning to Lyon. It’s a long way, probably seven hours towing, so we might change our minds and stop off at Avignon overnight on the way.
SEE NEW PHOTOS
Saturday, November 15
More Fun in Rome
by
George and Anne
on Sat 15 Nov 2008 18:09 GMT
Day 281-290 Thursday 6th November – Saturday 15th November 2008
Have continued to really enjoy Rome. Only one more thunderstorm but plenty more rain mixed in with lots of lovely sunny days as well. The temperature has been mostly pleasant around 20 degrees. We’ve been using the public transport a bit more to get further out of the centre and then walk back in. The Metro station is right next door to our local station from the caravan site so it is really easy. The trains are quite basic with lots of graffiti on the outside but there are lots of them – we’ve never had to wait more than seven or eight minutes for a train, and it’s so cheap – 1€ ticket lasts 75 mins on any train / bus / tram. Don’t know why the UK can’t manage it.
We had seen a stage being built in Piazza Del Popolo ready for a two night Military concert to celebrate the 90th anniversary of the end of the war. We got off the train one morning to see a big crowd in the square and hung about as well (as you do). The orchestra was tuning up and suddenly the crowd started applauding as a blind man was led on to the stage – yes, it was Andrea Bocelli arriving to do his sound check for the evening concert. He sang about five classical numbers, including a duet with a Soprano – marvellous.
The next night was the Military Brass Band Concert which we saw some of on our way home – lots of uniforms, plenty of scrambled egg and about three different bands, a very impressive sight – and sound.
Managed to fit in another trip to The Vatican. St Peter’s was fully open this time. Beneath the main altar is the tomb said to contain the body of St Peter which you can also see from down in the Grottoes. We went there first this time to see the tombs of the previous Popes. It is a very calm place (when the group visits have finished!) with tombs in the walls or in separate niches. The Tomb of John Paul II is in a niche, all very plain, with one candle burning and a few flower displays. Then back up into the main Basilica – it really is enormous and was the biggest in the world until the new Basilica of Our Lady Of Peace, in Yamoussoukro on the Ivory Coast, was finished in 1989.
(MORE INFO - The world's largest Christian church is in the Ivory Coast capital of Yamoussoukro. The multimillion-dollar basilica rises out of the slums of the city and was supposed to provide social services for the poor in the developing African country. But the social projects never materialized, and the church sits mostly empty during mass. The basilica has aroused much international controversy, for the lavish building glittering with Italian marble sits in the middle of an impoverished African city where only a minority of homes have running water and adequate sanitation, and the cost of the basilica doubled the national debt of The Ivory Coast).
As amazing as St Peter’s Basilica is, we much preferred other Basilicas we had visited in the City – particularly St Paul’s Outside The Walls which was absolutely stunning in every respect.
Managed to visit most of the places on our list – Coliseum, Pantheon, the remains of the Ancient Palaces on Palatine Hill to name a few – too numerous for individual comment, but have a look at the photographs on Picasa. We even managed to see the New James Bond Film (in English obviously!)
Leaving here tomorrow to begin our journey back to the UK . Can’t believe that our trip is coming to an end - first stop is La Spieza for a couple of days, then we’ll re-trace our steps a bit to get back up to Calais.
SEE PHOTOS
Wednesday, November 5
Exploring Rome
by
George and Anne
on Wed 05 Nov 2008 23:12 GMT
Day 271-280 Monday 27th October– Wednesday 5th November 2008
Well, a few more caravans have passed through here, but not many. Still lots of motorhomes but nobody seems to stay more than a few days – same as we have found in other city centre sites. Last week was quite full, probably because of half term, but there are not that many people here now. Internet here is really good, wi-fi in the caravan, and reasonable at 2€ for 3 days.
Rome is a really interesting city. Very easy access to the centre from here - the local station is ten minutes walk away with trains every fifteen minutes or so for the ten minute trip to Piazza Del Popolo (2€ return each), or there is a bus stop right outside the site entrance for a fifteen minute ride to Piazza Del Mazzini not quite as central but still ok, for the same price.
The main touristy bit is about three miles square so is easily walkable, although there is also a lot more apart from this which we will use the Metro for. Using our guide book we have picked out areas to explore each time and roughly kept to our plans. We have seen some wonderful sights including beautiful Basilicas, buildings, ancient ruins, lovely Piazzas and sunny streets. You will be relieved to know that there is just too much in Rome for us to give detailed accounts – we have added lots of labelled photographs in Picasa so you can see for yourselves.
One massive highlight so far was seeing Pope Benedict XVI in St Peter’s Basilica during our visit to the Vatican City………. more in a mo……….
The Vatican is twenty-five minutes walk from Piazza Del Popolo, over the river Tiber across the Regina Margherita bridge. Made the effort for an early start to beat any queues and were in St Peter’s Square by the Basilica before 9.00am.
What a sight it was as we emerged from a side street – the huge open piazza (which isn’t square at all), oval shaped, mostly enclosed by Bernini’s curving Colonnade of marble pillars, over which St Peter’s Basilica presides majestically. This site used to be the great Circus of Nero. On Nero’s command, Peter was crucified here in about 65AD. More than 250 years later, Emperor Constantine The Great built the first Basilica on this site, over St Peter’s Tomb, after declaring Christianity the official faith.
No queues for the climb up to the top of the Basilica Dome so off we went. 5€ each. The dome was designed by Michelangelo when he was in his seventies –sadly he didn’t live long enough to see the end result. About five hundred steps to the top, a stop half way to a gallery inside the Basilica, 53m above the floor, looking down on the high altar, an amazing sight, then upwards again on the final curving stairs, leaning inwards between the two skins of the dome. Eventually emerged outside onto a balcony circling the whole of the top of the dome – about 120m up, great views over the whole City of Rome. Well worth the effort. Made the return descent which finished inside the Basilica at the back –
What a magnificent place – absolutely huge, full of works of art, particularly Michelangelo’s Pieta. There was a barrier across the Nave about half way up so we couldn’t get anywhere near the main altar of St Peter’s Tomb – we found out that there was a special mass taking place at 11.30, to be taken by The Pope Himself, so we managed to get right up to the barrier and waited – along with crowds of other people who had heard the news. Invited guests were arriving and taking their seats all the time, entering from a door up near the altar (a long way up from where we were). Security men and Swiss Guards were everywhere. Sure enough, at 11.25 they all entered at the front and came into view– about thirty Cardinals and The Pope, a mass of red robes and Mitres in a sombre procession.
We found out later that is was a special Mass for all the Cardinals and Bishops who had died in 2008. How lucky we were to be there at exactly the right time.
Because of the service, we weren’t able to get into the front half of the Basilica so we will come again when it’s fully open. We’d also like to see the tomb of John Paul II. This is one of the many benefits of having lots of time here – it would be impossible to see everything we want to in a few days.
Went straight round to the entrance to the Vatican Museums, (14€ entry + 6€ audio guide, each) no queue there either and spent about four hours going from room to room looking at the stunning exhibits and decor – fabulous but exhausting. We eventually reached the Sistine Chapel and at least we could sit down there and marvel at Michelangelo’s ceiling, and Last Judgement fresco on the altar wall.
On Sunday we had a day out on the coast – drove west to Fiumicino – lovely sunny day but very windy so we had a bracing walk along the front, along with lots of smartly dressed locals out for their Sunday constitutional. A busy port with lots of cafes and restaurants. TomTom got us home ok!
Having a good time here so far and enjoying seeing some the famous sights including the Ancient Forum, the Chigi Palace, Via Del Corso, the Vittoriano Monument, Capitoline Hill, Spanish Steps – and we’ve thrown coins into the Trevi Fountain which will apparently ensure our return to Rome – it works, we were back two days later!
We’ve had all sorts of weather, from sitting outside in hot sun (not bad for November) to terrific thunderstorms, but have had mostly good weather for our trips into the city.
Looking forward to more of the same (well not the thunderstorms obviously).
SEE NEW PHOTOS
Sunday, October 26
Tuscany to Rome
by
George and Anne
on Sun 26 Oct 2008 23:20 GMT
Day 270 Sunday 26th October 2008
Left about 9.00am after remembering to put the clock back. After three weeks of worrying how the car would tow the caravan back up the steep hill to get out of the site, we hitched up and George roared off (Anne wasn’t allowed in the car – unnecessary weight!) up the hill and round the bends – no problem. Lovely sunny morning, but a chilly 15 degrees because of the clear sky.
Soon back onto the Fi-Pi-Li Expressway to Florence and then joined the motorway all the way to Rome, 320k easy journey in under four hours. The temperature was steadily rising and had reached 23 degrees by the time we got here. TomTom was programmed up with the address of the caravan site we were heading for (the only one near Rome which takes Camping Cheques) and really came into its own as we left the Rome ring road – both sets of instructions we had said to come off at junction 6. We went past junction 9 then ran out of numbers ! None of the following junctions were numbered so we followed Aussie Ken and came straight here – miracle.
One toll – 18€.
Camping Flaminio Village is only 7k from the City centre. We could park virtually where we liked so have got a sunny pitch near the shower block. The facilities here are excellent, especially the shower/wash blocks - more like a five-star hotel complete with classical music and self cleaning loo seats (yes really!). We have taken some photographs so you can see for yourselves. The site is quite big with lots of chalets to rent as well as 300 touring pitches. Also has a bar, restaurant, shop and information point.
Enjoyed red hot luxury showers then had a walk round the whole site – guess what? – ours is the only caravan here at the moment – all the rest are motor homes. Amazing!
Planning to be here for three weeks and really looking forward to exploring Rome for the first time.
PHOTOS
Saturday, October 25
Florence, Hector and Vinci
by
George and Anne
on Sat 25 Oct 2008 17:45 BST
Days 260 - 269 Thursday 16th October – Saturday 25th October 2008
Had a wonderful day in Florence – went on the train, 45 minutes, 3.50€ each. There is so much see we had to be ruthlessly selective and ended up seeing The Basilica of San Lorenzo, Piazza del Duomo ( Cathedral Square), Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Pitti and the Basilica of Santa Croce.
The Basilica of San Lorenzo is one of the largest churches of Florence situated at the centre of the city’s main market district, and the burial place of all the principal members of the Medici family.The main area was closed when we were there but we could walk into the entrance and round the cloistered garden. The very plain bricked facade of the building was never finished, despite detailed plans drawn up by Michelangelo.
The Piazza del Duomo was a bustling area containing the main Cathedral, the Baptistry and Giotto’s Bell Tower. The Cathedral has a magnificent interior with sixteen altars and a huge dome covered by an enormous fresco - Last Judgement by Vasari, Zuccari and helpers. There are also beautiful stained glass windows dating from the 14th and 15th centuries. Entry was free.
The Baptistry stands next to the Cathedral, built around the 5th century, a striking eight-sided, green and white marble building.
Also in the Cathedral Square is Giotto’s Bell Tower. Dating from the 1300s it stands 85m tall - 414 stone steps to the top - 6€ each and well worth the climb for the great views over the city.
Next was the Piazza della Signoria – from the late 1200s the scene of major Florentine events. Dominating one side are the three great arches of the Loggia della Signoria, designed in the 1380s for public ceremonies. It later became an open-air sculpture museum housing some fabulous pieces – see photos. Also in this square, The Neptune Fountain stands in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.
Then off to the other side of the River Arno over the Ponte Vecchio or old bridge – lined each side with jewellery shops – to the Palazzo Pitti, the Little Palace. Today it is a complex of museums and art galleries – The Palatine Gallery, The Monumental Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art, the Silver Museum, the Costume Gallery and the Coach Museum. We paid 12€ each to view the Palatine Gallery and the Monumental Apartments – worth every penny - we saw some stunning décor and famous paintings. Photos weren’t allowed but George sneaked a couple. The highlights for Anne was the Paintings by Raphael – Madonna of the Chair and La Velata, and Titian’s Mary Magdalene. We were in here for over three hours and only left because it was getting late and we wanted to see the Church of Santa Croce where Michelangelo is buried. Sadly, when we got there it had just closed so that will have to wait for another visit.
We thought Florence was an amazing City – too much to see in one visit, the churches alone would take days, the numerous art galleries need time to do them justice so we look forward to coming here again in the future.
Uk Interlude to visit little Hector -
Went on the train to Pisa airport leaving the car outside the local station in the next village of San Romano. Easyjet flight was on time and we landed at Gatwick South a 12 noon. Roger and Lee met us and we went straight to Kenley to the new house. Graham and Mum were already there so we had a lovely reunion. After a few hours they all left and Nina, James, Hector and Grandparents went for a long walk – with us fighting over who was going to push the buggy.
Their house is really lovely - Nina and James have got everything well organised – and little Hector has his very own first bedroom. Needless to say he charmed everybody completely. He has just moved on to bottled milk so we were all fighting for a turn to feed him – but Grandma managed to bath him and put him to bed both nights! Had a lovely few days with them all before making our way back to Gatwick on the train – Nina and Hector came with us to the airport to see us off! Flight delayed just over and hour this time, but we were in no rush.
Arrived back at the site to find our caravan all on its own. There are about three others up by the shower block and that’s it – on a site that can hold over 80! It’s lovely and quiet, apart from a bit of road noise, so we’ve had some great afternoons sunbathing, with the place almost to ourselves.
Went on a trip to Vinci (as in Leonardo da), a little village on a hilltop about twenty minutes drive from here. There is a museum dedicated to his works with models, built to scale in recent times (mainly by IBM), standing alongside copies of his original drawings – fascinating. The village itself is very pretty, spread round the church where Leonardo is said to have been christened (the original font is still inside) with super views over the Montalbano hills, narrow streets and shady terraces.
On the way back we visited another town – Cerreto Guidi – where one of the most infamous Medici Villas was built on the hilltop overlooking the town. It is now open to the public so we walked round spacious rooms with various exhibits on show. It was the scene of a brutal murder in1576. Isabella Medici, wife of Paolo Giordano Orsini, had plenty of money from father Cosimo Medici, didn’t care too much for her usually absent husband and got involved with Troilus Orsini, her husbands cousin. Paolo wasn’t too happy about this and strangled his 34 year old wife in her bed during a hunting trip when staying at this villa.
Been here for 3 weeks now. Paid the bill with camping cheques equivalent to about 14€ a night less 2 nights discount for staying 21 nights. Also we have enjoyed free internet here, wifi which worked most of the time in the caravan. That’s why the blog and photos are up to date!
Off to Rome tomorrow. More culture!
SEE NEW PHOTOS - CLICK HERE
Wednesday, October 15
Pam and Lester Visit Us in Tuscany
by
George and Anne
on Wed 15 Oct 2008 23:57 BST
Days 250 - 259 Monday 6th October – Wednesday 15th October 2008
This contribution to the blog is sponsored by Pam and Lester Biffin, (no cash received so far), who some of you may remember, paid us a visit in May, when we were in Lisbon. After repeated requests to spend even more time in the awning, we eventually gave way and have let them stay for the past five or six days.
It is good to learn from one’s mistakes, so this time, just hand luggage, which proved to be a very good decision as it saved lots of journey time. From home at 06.15 to meeting G & A in Pisa at 10.45 – and that includes adding the hour. 30 mins later we were on site, in shorts, beer in hand, soaking up a few rays, during the customary day one planning meeting.
Top of the list was Siena, so we did the day trip on the Friday. Parked under the old city wall and meandered through a true medieval gem of a city with visits to the Duomo (Cathedral) and the central Piazza, where, every year there is a major Horse Race meeting (see photos). Found a great pavement Trattoria and had a hurried lunch as they were about to close – great Pasta and Chianti – Bellisimo! Spent the rest of the day exploring the traffic free streets and alleyways, which were fascinating. Back home after dark – thank you driver (Annie).
Next day we went to the Saturday Market in the local village of Montopoli – 10/12 stalls with fish, meat, veg and the usual tat! Got some provisions for a Barbie, inc. a good helping of chestnuts for roasting on an open fire. Decided if the weather stayed this way, we would go to the beach.
Guess what – next day it was a day at the seaside! We were surprised that so many Italians decided to join us on an October Sunday, but it was close to 30 degrees and the water was warm (well it was on my ankles). We were in a rocky cove, north of Livorno and the locals were catching live squid, which was good entertainment.
It’s Monday, so it must be a train ride to Pisa, A few hundred years ago, someone had the foresight to build a bell tower, next to the cathedral, that looked like it was going to fall over. Some wag called it the “Leaning Tower of Pisa” and now it attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the world, the majority of whom take great pleasure in having a photo taken holding the thing up – yes, of course we did!
Had this building error not happened, Pisa would probably be just another town in Italy and our leisurely mid afternoon lunch would have been half the price!
Last full day here, so we stayed local and embarked on a walking circumnavigation of Montopoli. We headed out on the road from the campsite and soon we were on forest tracks and walking through several fields of olive trees and grapevines before finding our way back into the village for a most welcome sit down on a bar terrace, overlooking the main street, for a drink (or two) and an ice cream.
Up early for breakfast and the return trip to Pisa airport. We haven’t even mentioned the superb hospitality of our hosts, the barbies, the excellent food and drink, the chat, the card games, the boules night and the films we watched after midnight on DVD. It is good to know that we can still pack it all in and survive! A truly memorable and enjoyable few days – can’t wait till the next time!
Thanks - Lester & Pam.
Thank you both for that – we really enjoyed your visit as well.
This is our first visit to Tuscany and so far it is a good one.
Legend has it that Siena was founded by Aschius and Senius, sons of Remus (as in Romulus and Remus, the two brothers abandoned in the wood suckled and cared for by a she-wolf). Hence many statues of Romulus and Remus with the Wolf can be seen. Siena is a lovely walled city dominated by the Dumo, Cathedral, with exterior black and white striped decoration dating from the late 1300s.
The interior has impressive striped marble pillars, and inlaid marble panels depicting biblical scenes cover the floor. In one alcove was a statue of John the Baptist by Donatello. Anne particularly liked the ivory pulpit – apparently a masterpiece of Italian Gothic sculpture. Unfortunately our photographs don’t do the interior justice because of the dim lighting but you’ll get an idea. Entrance was 6€ per person.
One of the most impressive parts of Siena Cathedral was the Libreria Piccolomini – built as the personal library of Pope Pious II. The remarkably detailed wall and ceiling frescos are amazing – look at the photos, they look 3D but they are painted flat! The Cathedral also hosts sculpture by the young Michelangelo.
We stopped off at San Gimignano on the way home from Siena. It is one of the most unique Tuscan towns, and one of the most photographed, thanks to its hilltop position, tall towers and perfectly intact medieval walls. The town used to boast over forty towers, of which thirteen remain today. The really attractive narrow streets, however, were lined with touristy shops and were heaving with visitors. It felt as if this pretty village had perhaps become a victim of its own popularity.
The trip to Pisa was interesting. Went on the train – 2.90€ for a 30 min ride right into the centre. We had no idea that the famous leaning bell tower was so pretty - it was begun in 1173 and was completed 200 years later and has recently been stabilised - should be ok now for another 200. It is in the large grassy Piazza dei Miracoli (the miracle square) along with the impressive Cathedral, the Baptistery and the long Camposanto wall (cemetery). On first sight, the whiteness of the buildings contrasting with the lush green grass creates an impressive display. The place was heaving with tourists though, far too many English voices for our liking. We wanted to go up to the top of the tower but were put off by the two hour wait and the 15€ per person price. We decided to just go in the Cathedral for a very reasonable 2€ instead.
Had a great time with our visitors - lots of new photos if you are interested – click below. Pam became an expert in pest control, zapping lots of buzzy-things with our electric tennis racket - forehands, backhands and even a round-the-head shot. Anything that flew about in the awning was living on borrowed time.
We now have a few days on our own before a quick trip to the UK to visit Nina, James and Hector in their new home.
CLICK HERE FOR NEW PHOTOS
Sunday, October 5
San Remo to Montopoli, Tuscany
by
George and Anne
on Sun 05 Oct 2008 23:26 BST
Day 249 Sunday 5th October 2008
Left at 8.30 and went back up the hill to the motorway. It’s toll motorway all the way past Genoa and down into Tuscany. TomTom says 350k and it should take three and a half hours driving. He doesn’t always remember that we are towing a caravan!
Lovely morning when we left, bright sunshine, amazing views of the sea and the coastline on the way.
First half was all tunnels and bridges – through a mountain tunnel then out over a high road bridge to the next tunnel. The length of the tunnels varied – some were only about 50m long, two were over 1400m with others of varying lengths in between - George thinks we must have gone through nearly fifty of them.
As we got past Genoa and round the corner the scenery became flatter for a while so we turned off the headlights which we’d had on for all the tunnels – mistake! Some kind person overtook us then slowed down in front of us and flashed his hazards. George remembered reading somewhere that you must have your lights on at all times on the motorways in Italy. We turned them on and the car sped away – kind man because, as we found out later from someone on the caravan site, that the police fine you on the spot apparently.
Came down past signs for Pisa Airport and turned off the motorway near Livorno onto the Fi-Pi-Li Expressway (Firenze (Florence)- Pisa-Livorno). Toll 41€.
Still hot and sunny - found the caravan site without any problems – until we came through the entrance and saw the roadway disappearing down round a big, very steep turn! Stopped there and went down to look round – this site is about as different from the last one as is possible - set on a terraced wooded hillside in amongst trees and fields, loads of space and not many other people. We are going to put the awning up as Pam and Lester are visiting us here. It’s their second visit so the first one can’t have been that bad.
Chose a spacious pitch, went back to book in at Reception, then got back in the car and made our way very slowly down the hillside, no problem - but George is already worrying about how we’ll get up it again – never mind, we’re here for three weeks so will meet that when we get to it. On the plus side – we have got 10amps electricity, oh joy.
As the weather was so lovely we gave the caravan a good clean inside (Anne) and out (George) then sat in the sun with a cup of tea and piece of cake – Lovely. The awning can wait until tomorrow.
Here for three weeks. Looking forward to seeing Pam and Lester on Thursday. Planning to explore Pisa and Florence, and do some walking in this beautiful countryside.
Saturday, October 4
Second week in San Remo
by
GHorsfield
on Sat 04 Oct 2008 14:53 BST
Days 243 - 248 Monday 29th September – Saturday 4th October 2008
We have really enjoyed our last week in San Remo – or is it Sanremo ? We’ve been here two weeks now and we are still not sure. On maps and signposts it seems to be either.
However, we’ve found out why this area is called the Riviera of Flowers – it is the main centre for flower production in this region. The surrounding hillsides high up behind the town are covered in green houses and plastic tents and produce huge amounts of various varieties of flowers for sale all round the world. We are out of season now, but when they are in full bloom it must be a marvellous sight.
We’ve also found out how to cross the busy roads in the town centre. Go to the zebra crossing as normal but don’t rely on the traffic stopping or you’ll be there all day, wait for the slightest break in the traffic then step firmly out with eyes riveted on the other side and don’t stop for anything, particularly ignore all squeals of tyres and don’t be tempted to look at the traffic – it’s the only way you can get across. You do, however, have to look out for the motor scooters – there are hundreds of them everywhere zooming at you from all directions and most scooter riders seem totally crackers and are even worse than the car drivers.
Went east along the coast in the car, being zapped on all sides by scooters, and found delightful towns and villages. Imperia was the largest, very industrial in the centre of the town and seafront with some lovely, beachy parts either side and Diano Marina was a very pretty beach town further on along the coast. Our favourite was Cervo, a small village literally hanging on to the edge of the hillside overlooking the sea. Spectacular position with great views from the Clavesana Castle walls at the top, reached by very narrow lanes and ancient steps. The contrast of light and shade in these areas gives the town its other name – Painter’s Heaven. Also at the top of the village and dominating the skyline is the beautiful Church of the Corallini, which is the best Baroque monument of Western Liguria apparently. In summer evenings the Church Square is transformed into the stage of the International Chamber Music Festival, hosting world famous musicians.
This is a lovely part of the Italian Riviera and we preferred the east side of San Remo rather than the west.
Had another hot day by the pool, and another one down on the beach here watching the waves washing over the huge rocks that line the sea edge – it’s a bit like looking into a real log fire in winter, you can do it for hours.
We went back into town one evening for a meal at the restaurant we chose last week – it was closed! Never mind - we found another one tucked away down a little narrow street, really lovely food, no English spoken, brill.
Drove back into France to Monte Carlo about thirty minutes away. First came here together when we were 19 and 24 ! We’ve been back a few times since but never tire of sitting outside the Café de Paris, opposite the Hotel de Paris, by the Casino and watching the world go by.
Drove straight up to the Palace in Monaco, parked the car and went into the Palace. Never been in before and it was well worth the 9€ each which also gives you entry to the Palace Museum and Archives. Beautiful rooms in the Palace with evidence of the love held for Princess Grace at every turn. Saw the Changing of the Guard as we came out and then walked down thought the narrow streets to the Harbour area of Monte Carlo.
There have been some changes since we were last here – there are new harbour walls and the two landmark little lighthouses have gone completely. Took a ferry taxi from the harbour round to the back of the Casino which we’ve not done before, bargain at 1€ each.
Anne wanted to have a glass of Café de Paris sparkling wine sitting outside the Café de Paris, just for the crack, but balked at paying 11€ for one glass when you can buy a bottle in the supermarkets for 4€. Never mind, a beer and a glass of red was enjoyed just as much. Sat watching the Ferraris and Maseratis cruise by full of the beautiful idle rich, then – back off in the Alhambra to the caravan for us, the just idle!
George has become famous amongst the staff on the caravan site. The electric supply here is only 3amps – that’s not much, to the uninitiated. As we are here for two weeks (and not many people seem to be here for more than a few days) it means that we keep forgetting and accidentally tripping the fuse in the locked box outside the caravan by switching too much on at once, so we (George!) has to go to reception to get someone to come out, unlock the box, trip the switch back and re-lock the box. They won’t let us have a key. Whenever we go into reception, even if it’s for a bus ticket or map, they say “electric?” If we see one particular man, his hand is in his pocket reaching for his key before we’ve even said anything. Fame at last.
Went to the far side of San Remo to visit Villa Nobel. It was bought by Alfred Nobel in 1891 – a large very pretty villa in its own grounds by the sea. He built a laboratory in the grounds and conducted experiments until he died there in 1896 aged 63. The researcher and discoverer was mainly famous for developing safer explosives but was also a pioneer in many diverse fields of study.
His work, and businesses, with explosives, particularly nitro-glycerine, made possible some of the greatest accomplishments of that century - train tunnels, artificial canals, installation of harbours, and most famously enabled the Saint Gothard tunnel to be built on time and on budget – the first large tunnel where dynamite had been used, it was the first major link between north and south in the Alps. It is 15k long and took over eight years to build. More than 2000 miners took part in the construction, 200 of them were killed due to poor working conditions.
The Villa is now a museum dedicated to his life and works and also contains his will – he left his considerable fortune in a fund, the interest of which was to be distributed annually in the form of prizes to those who, during the preceding year, had conferred the greatest benefit on mankind in five categories – Physics, Chemistry, Physiology or Medicine, Literature, and Peace - The Nobel prizes - which are awarded on 10th December each year, the anniversary of his death.
The Villa also contains some of his own furniture arranged in the study, a sitting room and bedroom, and now hosts various events and exhibitions throughout the year. Entry was free.
A real highlight at the caravan site was the impromptu rehearsal/performance one evening of a German Youth Brass Band just outside the bar. They were all staying in the chalets here and were due to perform in one of the main squares in San Remo the next day. We sat out on the leafy terrace listening to great music for about an hour as the sun went down. When they began a lovely rendition of “Oh Happy Day” Anne’s contact lenses got a thorough washing – how lucky we are to be sitting here, how lucky we are to be on this trip - how lucky we are.
We are really glad we stayed here for two weeks - in one of our books San Remo was described as a City of Layers and that is exactly right. In one week we would not have peeled away as many of them as we have after two weeks and we would definitely come here again. It is a lovely city with beautiful buildings, practically no English people and none of the brash, in your face, tourism of some places we’ve been to.
Had a meal in the restaurant here tonight, our last evening.
Off to Tuscany tomorrow for three weeks and looking forward to receiving guests.
MORE PHOTOS – CLICK HERE
Sunday, September 28
First week at San Remo
by
George and Anne
on Sun 28 Sep 2008 21:21 BST
Days 236 - 241 Monday 22nd September – Sunday 28th September 2008
The congestion on the site here is now much less – loads of people left on Monday so it doesn’t seem as crowded. We think they had hung on to see the air show and then moved on the next day. Good. The afternoons are very entertaining with quite a few new arrivals but most of them are only here for one night. Good.
We have really warmed to San Remo, known as the tourist centre of the Riviera dei Fiori, Riviera of Flowers. Went for a long walk, into the town centre along the seaside, all round the sea-front area, into the vast marina and out the other side. The part of the town centre just back from the sea front is not particularly large and is dominated by the Casino, churches (including a Russian Orthodox) and about four or five large hotels on the western side, where the caravan site is, and two huge marinas housing about eight hundred boats on the eastern side. There is also a permanent covered fruit and veg market in the centre with a twice weekly peddlers’ market. The town centre proper has some lovely streets lined with quaint shops, cafes and restaurants, with designer boutiques mixed in. The Casino also hosts various events in art, culture, theatre and exhibitions.
When we walked into the little central railway station building by the seafront and walked through onto where the platform should have been we were surprised to find another road and no tracks! Apparently, the railway line has been moved up behind the town into a tunnel and the old railway track is in the process of being made into a walking/cycling path. The area going out of town heading east has already been completed and they are in the throws of doing the rest. When finished it will be a super facility – about 15k trail along the old railway line route, covered in tarmac, for walking and cycling along the coast. We’ll have to come back with bikes one day.
The rocky shoreline gives way to beaches fronting the town which all seem to be private. At the marina end there is a huge sandy beach which is only accessible by going through manned barriers, or cafes – and paying! At our end of the town there is a succession of private beaches run by the cafes they are joined to. At the caravan site there is a lovely pool area and the seaside rocky beach area and, as the weather has been mixed, we tended to stay here for swimming. Apart from the first couple of days which were cloudy, we have usually had a clear blue sky in the mornings then cloudier from mid afternoon – but it’s always been warm.
The old town Medieval area, or the Pigna (pine cone), clings to the steep hillside away from the sea front area and is a maze of very old buildings very close together – lots of narrow alleyways, with long flights of steps - it was built this way to deter marauding pirates. We spent a lot of time getting lost in them but found lovely tiny little cafes - more like someone’s front room – small sunny squares, ancient churches, artist workshops and very inviting restaurants - we have chosen a restaurant to go back and eat in next week.
Had a drive west along the coast road through some lovely little towns – Ospedalettti in particular – very scenic drive, mostly high up above the sea with the road sweeping down into the town centres at sea level.
There has been great excitement in the town at the end of this week as San Remo has been hosting a leg of the Intercontinental Rally Challenge for S2000, Groups N, A and A7 cars if that means anything to anyone. We saw lots of dressed up Peugeot 207s, Polos, Clios and apparently the cars cost anything up to 200,000€ each. This event takes place from April to November in 10 locations round the world starting in Turkey and ending in China. Judging by the number of teams, car manufacturers and sponsors there is a serious amount of money involved in this. Over three days the Rally Cars zoom off on timed runs round different routes of the local area – starting and ending right in the town centre. The roads in town were not closed to normal traffic and it was very amusing to see the Rally cars coming back - weaving in and out of busses taxis and normal cars through the town to get to the finish line. The Italians all drive as if they are racing anyway so it all seemed to work fine. A large area of the sea-front was designated as The Service Park where the teams’ mechanics etc were set up. There was no crowd control here and we could just wander amongst it all. The officials had whistles which they blew whenever a car was approaching – at speed! We found it very entertaining walking round and seeing it all, never having been to anything like it before.
Have enjoyed a couple of hot sunny days round the pool here – it has never been crowded and at one end you can lie and enjoy super views out over the ocean. Very relaxing.
Sunday 28th September – Nina, James and Hector move to their new house near Purley, Surrey, today. We wish them every happiness in their new home and can’t wait to visit them there.
We are staying here for another week and plan to explore east along the coast and some of the inland villages.
CLICK HERE FOR NEW PHOTOS
Sunday, September 21
San Raphael to San Remo
by
George and Anne
on Sun 21 Sep 2008 23:12 BST
Day 235 Sunday 21st September 2008
Moving day today – and Nina’s 29th birthday. Little did we think, at this time last year, that on her next birthday she would be a mother, and we really miss not seeing her on her birthday.
Anyway – It poured with rain again overnight here so waited for things to clear up a bit before departing at a leisurely pace for the short trip, under two hours, to San Remo. A very scenic journey, four small tolls on the way – 3.60€, 4.10€,2€ and 3€.
We duly took the San Remo turn off the motorway, still high up overlooking the sparkling sea – and there it all went wrong….. came to a t-junction - instant decision required. We had a 50/50 chance and we blew it and ended up taking the wrong road down to the sea front instead of going the main road way to San Remo centre and then going along the coast a bit.
However, after at least ten narrow hairpin bends and a lot of sweat and anguish (Anne) and a lot of white knuckles on the steering wheel and very tight jaw line (George) we made it down and found the caravan site signs – a really sharp right-hand turn back on ourselves to get on the approach road (no problem after what we’d just gone through) and arrived at the entrance…… and then carried on past it as it looked more like the exit. It had a no-entry sign on the gate post so we kept driving and ended up at a dead end! A three point turn followed, yes, really three – the road was wide luckily, we entered the site and were allocated a pitch. (Still don’t know what the dead end sign relates to!)
This site is a total contrast to the last one. It is completely paved, with trees and small bushes growing out of the paviours. The marked pitches are very small, just enough room for the caravan with the car next to it, and very close together. It is also virtually full! We unhitched and pushed the caravan onto the pitch with the help of two very nice Dutch men (although it’s very easy on paviours), put the kettle on as soon as we could and started to calm down and relax.
Although the pitches on this site are not ideal, the facilities here are brilliant – beautifully tiled modern washrooms, lovely swimming pool, restaurant, bar – and a lovely pebble beach right by the sea - although the coastline is rocky here. Marvellous.
When we arrived there was an airshow in progress in San Remo town just down the road so we went out on the beach here and watched it for a while (Anne with her fingers firmly in her ears). It turned out to be a fantastic show out over the bay with much of the action just in front of our beach. The finale was a great show by the Italian equivalent of the Red Arrows but with red white and green smoke!
Had a nice meal in the site restaurant which was packed with loud Italians and had a nice atmosphere. One spag bol, one pizza, bowl of frites, bread and a bottle of wine. Good food and good service for 26€. Not bad.
Lovely sunny day. We are due to stay here for two weeks – looking forward to exploring the area which neither of us has been to before.
Saturday, September 20
Antheor near St Raphael
by
George and Anne
on Sat 20 Sep 2008 23:35 BST
Days 229 - 234 Monday 14th – S |
